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The ‘Rencontres Mediterranéennes du Muscat’ might sound like a dating agency for southern European winegrowers; but Perpignan’s second Muscat showcase prompted further investigation into the variety’s current standing and future potential in the UK. Firstly: traditional ‘vins doux naturels’ or other sweeties from the Roussillon - the leading producer - Languedoc and southern Rhône. Secondly: developments in dry Muscat styles and what retailers think of them. With over 9000 hectares (ha) of Muscat planted in France, most of it in the south, it isn’t a grape to be sneered at. This isn’t far behind those other versatile, ‘noble’ varieties Chenin Blanc and Semillon; and much trendier Viognier has a mere 2500 ha (estimated). First and foremost, Muscat is used and perceived as a sweet wine variety. On a local level, a quick look at the production figures in table 2 reveals how important Muscat vins doux naturels (VDN, see table 1) are to the winegrowing economy, especially in the Roussillon. Here they account for about 10% of the total and 20% of appellation (AOC) wines. After several years of decline, hitting crisis point in 2003-04 with serious stock and price issues, sales of Muscat de Rivesaltes finally stabilised last year. France is still by far the main market for these wines, as Eric Aracil, export manager at the CIVR (Roussillon trade body) pointed out: “VDNs are only just starting in export. Overall they represent something like 3 to 5 % in volume.” So what progress has been made and how might they appeal to British wine lovers? Cave de Baixas’ Dom Brial label was a victim of Morrison’s takeover of Safeway. “We sold 30,000 half-bottles,” sales manager Claude Sarda claimed, which demonstrates there was a following for this type of wine. “Now it’s more like in France, you have to do tastings in wine shops or supermarkets. The styles are fresh and fruity, when people try it they like it.” Brial has been innovating in France with a range of more accessible Muscat products (le Pot sec, Fizzy, Daisy, Rozy; see later), which could work well over here too. Mont Tauch is launching Muscat de Rivesaltes at ‘France under One Roof’ in 50cl bottle at £4.99. Export manager Katie Jones believes “there is a market as long as it’s on tasting and clearly described for the consumer.” Vitally, the words ‘sweet Muscat from the south of France’ will feature on the back label. For Charles Lea, joint-owner of London’s Lea & Sandeman shops, the market for sweet French Muscats is “small, price-conscious and possibly suffering from a rather naff image, after the explosion of Muscat Beaumes de Venise in the 70s.” He rightly made comparisons to what are regarded as similar wines: “there are more sophisticated sweeties - Coteaux du Layon, for example, with botrytis to give complexity and better acidity, barely more expensive. The Brits will not think of these other than as pudding wines.” Stephen Crosland, Tanners’ purchasing director, thinks “St. Jean (de Minervois) does represent very good value and Beaumes de Venise is still well recognised. We’re looking to more in the Roussillon but feel Muscat is maybe a bit dated, and are also looking to Grenache based wines. 50cl or smaller is important; the Samos (see table 2) has moved to halves with good success.” Kenneth Vannan from Villeneuve Wines in Scotland praised Vignerons de Beaumes de Venise: “We’ve been buying the Muscat for 20+ years, it has a loyal following. I’d say it’s more recognisable than Rivesaltes and Frontignan.” Simon Taylor, Stone Vine & Sun, agreed: “I would say Beaumes-de-Venise was a very successful brand in French terms.” He described the Roussillon as “a very positive area, we list 4 VDNs from here. We always finish a Languedoc-Roussillon or Rhone tasting with a VDN, and people are often delighted by them.” Rivesaltes producers sell a big chunk of their latest vintage in France labelled as Muscat de Noël, which might work in the UK. Jo Ahearne at M&S commented: “We sell a Rivesaltes as Christmas pudding wine with that as its title, so the customer isn’t really buying VDN.” Taylor wasn’t so convinced: “We’ve toyed with Muscat de Noel but to me Muscat is a summer drink (strawberries).” M&S winemaker Gerd Stepp added: “In general there’s good consumer demand for ‘pudding’ wines, it’s just that the customer is a little uncertain about regions and styles.”
Majestic is currently the only multiple specialist to list a Muscat sec, from Gérard Bertrand at £4.99. Chris Hardy described the style as “more in-line with English taste.” Waitrose’s Justin Howard-Sneyd MW was also optimistic: “I have a personal conviction that dry muscat styles have huge potential, if only the kind of customers who respond to them (maybe the semi-sweet drinker whose palate has become drier) could learn what to look out for.” He’s listed a Roussillon red and white from Domaine Lafage for their April/May ‘wine showcase’: “I just wish we could persuade customers to buy their fantastic Muscat.” Dourthe’s Domaine de Sérame won best Muscat in OLN’s vins de pays d’Oc shoot-out; the new vintage will be unveiled at ‘France under One Roof’. Returning to Muscat’s shortcomings, which mostly stem from vineyard and winery techniques geared to VDN styles. These are being overcome by picking earlier without forsaking phenolic ripeness and avoiding protracted skin contact, which account for that light bitterness. Blending is another way and can add weight to Muscat’s aromatics, such as the Domaine Cazes or Fruité Catalan Muscat-Viognier wines. Taylor thought “it should be possible to make fresh, unoaked blends from Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Muscat, Maccabeo etc. for £5.50-£7.00.” Sparkling, rosé - Dom Brial’s bikini-clad ‘Rozy’ is a surprisingly subtle Syrah/Muscat - and even alcohol-free Muscats provoked mixed reactions among retailers; yet show other areas where the variety can develop if price, taste and packaging match. Sweet Muscat may eventually break the mould, with a clearer message and in-store tastings, as an alternative aperitif, dessert or cheese wine. Dry varietals or blends could prove to be the biggest opportunity of all. Whatever their form, southern French Muscat producers must keep innovating and really get behind their wines, if they want to create a potentially exciting opening in the UK. 1. Muscat-ology Muscat d’Alexandrie (MA) – AKA Muscat à gros grains, Moscatel de Malaga, Hanepoot (SA), Zibibbo (Italy & north Africa)… Muscat à Petits Grains (MPG) – AKA Muscat d’Alsace, Moscatel de Douro, Moscato d’Asti, yellow Muscat (Germany & Hungary)… Muscat Vin Doux Naturel – made by ‘mutage,’ adding neutral grape spirit (96% ABV) to the fermenting must, giving a “naturally” sweet wine with 100-125 grams per litre residual sugar (g/l RS) and around 15% alcohol. Muscat moelleux – medium-sweet with up to 45 g/l RS, made from late picked grapes or (cheaper) by sweetening after fermentation. Muscat effervescent – medium-dry/sweet sparkling wine (15 to 45 g/l RS) made by traditional method (bottle fermented) or in tank. Muscat sec – regular dry white with less than 5 g/l RS. 2. Mediterranean VDN Muscats at a glance
Languedoc-Roussillon feature Limitless, dramatic: the Languedoc-Roussillon is a wild landscape of contrasts. Demos and dynamite, dynamic estates and brave new brands. While we should, of course, sympathise with stranded growers asking for more help from a distant Paris; it was Vinisud, the showcase for Mediterranean wines held in February, which took Montpellier by storm in the most constructive sense. Unfortunate use of words perhaps, in light of the isolated desperate acts that scar the region. But it’s clearly the numerous creative winemakers, who are signposting the future path for the South. This report looks at some of the new success stories from the region and latest developments in building a cohesive approach to marketing in the UK. The idea of ‘South of France’ has been doing the rounds for a while, and Languedoc-Roussillon producers did come together on one very visible stand at this year’s London Wine Fair. There’s already a proactive ‘SOF’ campaign orchestrated by Westbury Communications, although as yet only representing Languedoc and Vin de Pays d’Oc: Roussillon is handled by Focus PR. However, a couple of weeks ago the Fédération des Interprofessions des Vins du Languedoc et du Roussillon (FIVLR) or ‘Inter Sud de France’ was officially formed. This should supersede the existing bodies to better coordinate quality control, technical research and, tellingly, sales, marketing and distribution. Inevitably there’ll be teething problems, but the main thing for the UK is to show simplicity through unity yet hold on to their diversity. The very fact that AOCs and Vins de Pays can work together is already a landmark and unheard of in France.
Returning briefly to developments in appellations and subzones, the catch-all Languedoc AOC will surface this year allowing more flexible blending for traditional styles and umbrella labelling. The jury’s still out on creating more ‘cru’ areas: some believe it complicates matters further, others that it’s essential if true ‘terroir’ wines are to flourish. Two examples are Boutenac in Corbières and Tautavel in Roussillon, where the Bertrand group is investing in the future. He’s president of the Boutenac growers’ body and is working with four co-ops in the latter region to create a premium red range starting at £6.99. It’s intimated that the Corbières name would be eventually dropped, which seems unwise from a consumer point of view. ‘Les Aspres’ subzone of the Roussillon has been criticised for covering too wide an area to say anything meaningful. So far, the 2004 reds on the market show a rather samey barrique-influenced style, but it’s early days. Pic Saint Loup (north of Montpellier) appears to have gained a mini-following with its Syrah based reds in the £6-£10 segment. As long as the result is truly excellent individual wines, and even at relatively niche prices, perhaps the best way to label these zones would be the more recognised formula: region + ‘Villages’ + village name, e.g. Côtes du Roussillon Villages Tautavel? Delving deeper into Corbières, this huge region has been witnessing an impressive transformation with several very serious investors on the scene. Château de Sérame is an extensive property straddling both Corbières and Minervois, who went into partnership with Bordeaux magnate Dourthe four years ago. With 120 hectares in production and 10 being replanted every year, “our aim is benchmark wines” commented winemaker Vincent Bernard. The range shows exciting potential: at the top, L’Icone Corbières 2003 is a powerful limited series red followed by very solid Corbières and Minervois, classic blends of Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and Mourvèdre. From their Réserve vin de pays varietals, the Muscat sec (a relatively recent style in the South and one that could catch on), Viognier and Merlot stand out. Château de Lastours is a breathtaking estate perched high up in the Corbières hills and changed hands in 2004. The new owners are investing heavily (at least €5 million) in upgrading and reducing the vineyard area and an amazing landscaped winery. This is already apparent in the high quality of their 2004 reds (the wines had been going downhill for a few years). Les Crus pour Joie is the fetching name coined by this merry band of mostly young, small estates in the wild country around Lagrasse: Domaine Baillat, Clos d'Espinous, Château Roquenégade, Domaine la Rune, Château Prieuré Borde-Rouge, Clos de l'Anhel and Château Cascadais. Watch out for them and other hands-on producer groups.
There’s an increasing trend of former co-operative growers setting up their own wineries, turning grape growing skills into personalised bottles. Some star examples are the organic Coston brothers in Coteaux du Languedoc (down the road from Mas Daumas Gassac), Jean-Michel Arnaud of Château Faiteau, Minervois La Livinière and Julien Fournier’s Serrelongue in Maury. Organic is another of the South’s plus points, and the region had a strong presence at the Millésime Bio show earlier this year – Languedoc-Roussillon, Provence and Corsica account for 53% of the surface area of French certified-organic vineyards. Saint-Chinian is home to a clutch of excellent organic domaines such as Borie la Vitarèle and Siméoni. The latter has also launched La Tete à l’Envers (100% Syrah) and a 100% old Carignan called ‘Vin de Crise.’ Jean-Claude Mas recently purchased organic vineyards near his Pézenas estate and introduced perhaps the first Marselan, apparently a cross between Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon, into the UK at Waitrose. English couple James and Catherine Kinglake put their money into a dream and bought Domaine Bégude near Limoux, south of Carcassonne, in 2003. Describing their philosophy as “turbocharged lutte raisonnée” (as environmentally friendly as possible without being full-blown organic), Bégude is making very good Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay priced £5.99 to £8.99; the top oak aged one is listed by Waitrose. Mas also has a winery in this area supplying Chardonnay and Viognier for his Arrogant Frog and other labels. Dom. la Sauvageonne (north of Montpellier) is the brainchild of Gavin Crisfield and new to the Boutinot portfolio. Deborah Brooks said: “It’s been really well received by independent retailers, who can hand-sell them due to the fact that they taste like “real” wines.” The range is priced from £5.99 to £15. The Vin de Pays d’Oc category continues to show the way, as confirmed by the quality of entries in OLN’s Top 100 competition. Exports now account for 57% of overall sales, up 6% this year, with the UK occupying 14% of that. Oc has become the designation of choice for many of the up-front brands, established or about to be unveiled, in the off-trade. The high profile Chamarré brand is actually sourced from an even broader area than Languedoc-Roussillon and brings together large co-ops and wine companies across the south, Bordeaux and the Loire. OVS, the operation behind it, certainly means business “aiming for 12 million bottles in the UK within 5 years,” commented export manager Vincent Norguet. “We’re investing around 5 million Euros per year.” Chamarré hit Thresher stores last week, and buyer James Griswood is enthusiastic: “I’m excited to finally see a French brand that not only has the financial backing, but also an understanding of total support required to build a top 20 UK brand.” He sees its trump card as “being able to blend across regions within France (for the VdT wines)… giving them the extended options open to USA and Australian brands that are so successful in our market.” Other new concepts include Esprit Med, a 14 strong varietal and AOC range from Alastair Cassie Wines pitching at £3.99-5.99; and Domaine Belles Eaux vin de pays bag-in-box from this Languedoc property transformed by AXA and now represented by Paragon. Obviously the demand for rosé is something the South can capitalise on. Gabriel Meffre and Guy Anderson’s Chasse du Pape has been bolstered by a new Syrah rosé, £4.99 in Asda & Sainsbury’s. And Laroche has introduced the Mas Chevalière 2005 rosé. The Roussillon excels at the big yet balanced styles coming onto the market: Cave de Terrats’ Rosé de Terrassous, Rasiguères rosé, Le Pot from Dom Brial/Vignerons de Baixas and Château Mossé’s would all sell for around £5. The challenges of overproduction (of the wrong wines) and uniting the region will remain very real for some time to come. But the sheer range of styles and quality now available in the UK off-trade, plus an enthusiastic generation of people and attitudes aiming to offer the right wines with proper backing, demonstrate (without the Molotov cocktails) that the future’s very bright for the south of France.
"Italy's great
white hope: Pinot Grigio" Perceptive readers might have noted with interest the apparent paradox between two items in the 12th May issue of OLN. One story had M&S enthusing: “the sexy and magical words Pinot Grigio… (have) more resonance with shoppers.” The other, from a recent Wine Intelligence survey, stated that “only 55% of monthly wine drinkers can identify Pinot Grigio as a type of white grape.” The first follows some kind of positive, consumer ‘brand’ acceptance; on the other hand, they aren’t necessarily recognising it as a grape variety. So is the Pinot Grigio star phenomenon still in the ascendant, or are there signs that PG is passé? Not according to a report by Barbara Scalera of Eviva Communications (www.skalliandrein.com/winevolution/news): “Italy sold 1,603,000 cases of Pinot Grigio in the UK (March 05-06) representing an increase of 72% over last year’s sales, and setting Pinot Grigio up to soon become Italy’s top-selling wine,” perhaps knocking even Soave off its pedestal.
David Gleave MW, Liberty Wines, called it “the only Italian white doing well in the multiples, independents and restaurant trade.” Griswood was more cautious: “there’s the danger of this wine being traded so hard by retailers that overall quality will be affected… also the ‘liebfraumilch effect’, whereby Pinot Grigio becomes so ubiquitous that the consumer gets bored. I don’t see this in the immediate future; however, I can definitely foresee this for the medium to long term.” A natural progression capitalising on this achievement has been to expand the choice of Pinot Grigio from other Italian regions, and even pink wines tagging on to the rosé boom. Sicily is the hot place for richer more New Worldy styles with a couple of visible brands recently launched in the retail sector, such as Inycon in Morrisons at £5.99. But are higher priced and quality ones from the northeast riding in on the wave, or is there a price ceiling the customer won’t go beyond? Bird confidently claimed: “We sell Italian Pinot Grigio up to £10 per bottle. There’s clearly a market for well crafted wines from cool climate areas such as Alto-Adige. Sparkling Pinot Grigio has also been a successful phenomenon of the last five years.” Griswood added: “We’ve introduced a number of Pinot Grigios over the last couple of years that have added incremental sales to the category, rather than cannibalising established wines.” There may be little consumer understanding of where Friuli, Giulia, Collio or Trentino are, but these regions seem to offer good opportunities for specialists and independents looking for alternative ‘statement’ Pinot Grigios. If you taste a selection of £5-£10 wines, there’s no doubt that you usually get that bit more in terms of quality and personality (see below). Damian Carrington at Enotria Winecellars argued that “there are really two categories of Pinot Grigio in the market place: the commodity wines that retail up to £4.99 and the classic styles, mainly from Friuli and Alto Adige. Commodity wines are selling extremely well, the classics remain niche products. We see a considerable slow down in demand once you pass the £4.99 price point.” However, Gleave considers that “customers have related Pinot Grigio with a particular area and matched it to price points; we say ‘don’t try to get the cheapest.’ Even wines at £17 do sell in independents.” Ca’Vit has invested time and money into research on Pinot Grigio clones and rootstocks. “To identify the best for Trentino,” according to Gambarotto, “for reliable production, not too low or high nor with too tight bunches. We’re also aiming to significantly reduce the use of pesticides.” Moving on to Pinot Grigio rosé, this is more than just clever marketing, as Gambarotto reminds us. “Few actually realise it’s a pink skinned variety,” thus a logical winemaking step as well. Eight hours cold skin maceration quickly produces the desired blush colour. Or you can add up to 15% of a red variety such as Pinot Noir (to comply with varietal labelling law), as is the case with Boutinot’s vivid and fruity Italia rosé. Others who have introduced Pinot Grigio blush include PLB Wines from the huge Verona winery Pasqua. Alex Canneti reported that “it’s going well through the independent trade at £4.99.” Given the taut supply and demand situation for inexpensive Pinot Grigio and numerous cases of fraud uncovered in recent times, can we be sure that what we’re buying is the real thing? Bird gave a categorical yes: “we carry out regular technical audits on our suppliers and only buy and ship direct. We wouldn’t trade with an agent whose winery we’d never inspected.” But if there’s simply not enough Pinot Grigio in Italy to satisfy export markets, it’s inevitable that some might turn a blind eye. Canneti commented: “it’s the volume driver because it’s now the only Italian category in plentiful supply. More Pinot Grigio is being produced legally so most is now legal!” Gleave added: “a lot at the lower end is Pinot Grigio as far as the paperwork is concerned. We have our own winemakers on the ground so are very confident.”
Griswood said: “If the Pinot Grigio drinker wasn’t buying it, they wouldn’t necessarily be buying other varieties from Italy. Wine consumers are more promiscuous than that and would probably be buying from an altogether different country.” Bird, though, believes in life beyond PG: “There’s no doubt Pinot Grigio is the most recognised variety and we ensure we satisfy the demand. However, we actively market interesting wines made from white varietals such as Vermentino and Fiano.” More upbeat, Griswood also added: “The fact that so many consumers are buying and enjoying Italian Pinot Grigio, however, is a benefit to this country as a whole, and makes the trade-across to more ‘characterful’ varieties easier.” Gleave was on the same wavelength: “if it gets people drinking Italian wines, it’s doing a good job. Pinot Grigio can offer character and drinkability, it doesn’t need to be neutral.” Canneti brought up other issues: “Chianti is restricted to 80 million litres, so it’s difficult to find a red driver from Italy. We need Pinot Grigio but the future will be Sicilian reds such as Nero d’Avola. There’s no white alternative on the horizon.” The ‘PG phenomenon’ isn’t in any danger
of going away in the near future, and consumers do appear willing to
experiment with more expensive examples (whether Italian or not) or rosé
and sparkling styles. Smart producers and retailers are also putting their
money on other whites to further develop Italy’s standing, although it’s
hard to see which varieties could depose Pinot Grigio as the volume
leader.
Once upon a time in the South… The detailed new regulations and proposals appear to be heading in two clear directions – broader, more flexible and simplified at the volume end; and more distinct and terroir-focused for high quality wines. All appears perfectly reasonable and reflecting the way the market is going? In terms of Coteaux du Languedoc, this appellation “should become” just Languedoc - this is essential to avoid confusion over the use and meaning of the Languedoc name - and will embrace the existing areas of Minervois, Corbières, Fitou, Côtes du Roussillon etc. if producers choose to. Thus they could take advantage of more flexible rules (although in theory still strict) and umbrella ‘generic’ labelling to make and promote more punter-friendly wines. Alongside this, AOC sub-zones will continue to be developed based on climate, soil, varieties, history etc. So specific regions such as La Clape et Quatourze, Terrasses de Béziers, Pézenas et Cabrières, Terrasses du Larzac, Grés de Montpellier and Terre de Sommières will supplement already established Picpoul de Pinet (whites) and Pic Saint-Loup (reds and rosés). In addition, recognised Languedoc communes could follow suit e.g. Montpeyroux and St-Christol. Jacques Fanet, Syndicat des Coteaux du Languedoc boss, confirmed: “Our job is to distinguish between particular terroir zones and, on the other hand, to open it up from Nimes to the Spanish border to offer decent quantities under the Languedoc banner. We’re focusing on Languedoc first, as in export markets people don’t know where these places are.”
Other developments include the appearance of Limoux AOC red and white (e.g. some of the best Chardonnay in the South) running alongside this region’s sometimes excellent sparkling wines; and white Faugères and Saint-Chinian, of marginal interest even if occasionally good and different.
France’s second longest river has inspired us to ‘think red’, ride with Rhône rangers and even roam with goats. Côtes du Rhône wines have, over time, won a place in the hearts of British buyers, but their current hit-or-miss performance has exposed the fickle nature of this relationship. If overall volume trends for the last year look a little alarming, then the rise in value and of certain appellations and brands – particularly from the southern Rhône – paints a rosier picture. As is happening elsewhere in France, wine export body Inter-Rhône recently united with other producer groups to agree an action plan to combat falling sales. This focuses on decreasing yields to bring production in line with demand and increase quality; and provides extra cash for promotion and struggling companies. Philippe Verdier, Director of International Marketing, believes “Côtes du Rhône imports have been swept along by the negative flow for French wines, but we should see a turnaround in the months ahead… Côtes du Rhône will be a key player in the off-trade in the second half of the year with a big push in 15 chains.” This is being supported by a high-visibility poster campaign in London. As the figures in the table below confirm, AC Côtes du Rhône is bucking the trend, which seems largely due to the success of a few proactive producers and agents, and solid sales of their brands through the multiple grocers, who shift over 80% of all Rhône wines. The performance of La Chasse du Pape – made by Gabriel Meffre and handled by Guy Anderson Wines – is particularly noteworthy, moving up to 30th place in the recent OLN/Nielsen ‘Top 50 Brands’ chart. The range includes Côtes du Rhône Réserve at £4.99 and two premium wines, Grande Réserve red and white with RRP of £6.99. “The brand is forecasted to hit 250,000 cases this year, a growth of 34%,” comments Richard Evans, MD of GAW. “This has been achieved by increased distribution, range extensions and continued marketing support. Our aim is half a million cases within three years.” Bottle Green, who work closely with Du Peloux, have “turned our attention to our French Connection Classic Côtes du Rhône, which offers excellent quality/value at £4.99,” says boss David Gill, because “we’ve seen the big volume, generic own label business get whittled down in cost by retailers to an unsustainable level.” Xavier Logette, Export Director for Caves Saint Pierre (represented by Thierrys), also talked about pricing and the need to launch new brands. “How do we attract the younger consumer and generate the capital for promotion by selling at higher prices? At £3.99, Côtes du Rhône is super quality; buyers won’t pay +25% to help develop brands but they do it for the New World.” Cellier des Dauphins is in wide distribution in French supermarkets yet doesn’t have such a strong following here, although it’s listed by Tesco at £4.53. The brand is owned by the mighty Union des Vignerons des Côtes du Rhône, who also purchased the family firm Louis Mousset in 1996, whose wines are now distributed by Freixenet (DWS). Waitrose stocks Mousset’s organic La Colombe label (£4.99) and Châteauneuf-du-Pape Clos St-Michel (£11.99). Buyer Simon Thorpe MW is enthusiastic about the outlook thanks to the 2003 vintage: “Even down at the cheap end, there seems to be great texture and body in the reds, which makes them perfect for early drinking.” He adds: “2002 was a very difficult vintage in the area and this had an impact not only on prices and quality, but ability to promote as well. Overall we trade strongly in the Rhône, and I think the coming 12 months will be very encouraging.” James Griswood at the Thresher Group expands further: “Volumes for us are looking good year-on-year. With a large volume stripped out by the conditions of 2002 vintage, the bottom end of the market looks particularly bad value for money. I expect most retailers have been sourcing their ‘volume’ promotions from other countries… and, without these discounts dragging down the average retail, the value won’t drop by the same percentage.” Problems with quality and a steep reduction in quantity available of 2002s may also partly explain why Côtes du Rhône Villages sales nose-dived over the last year. Image conscious producers were able to downgrade wines to maintain consistency, labelling them as ‘lesser’ appellations. Anthony Borges, proprietor of Great Horkesley Wine Centre, confirms this: “At the premium end, Guigal 2002 Châteauneuf-du-Pape was scrapped and declassified to good reliable Côtes du Rhône Villages. But what of the lower end wines? Where do they go? So long as the producers both protect and invest in the name ‘Rhône’, they’ll continue to retain a good reputation and enjoy a sustainable future.” Côtes du Rhône Villages reds such as Rasteau, Beaumes-de-Venise, Séguret and Cairanne can offer great value for money and exactly the right kind of style for the UK. Yet the figures show these wines aren’t making any progress, implying the average punter remains ignorant of the village names and hierarchy. “Except the most sophisticated and knowledgeable, consumers wouldn’t know that CNDP is a Rhône wine let alone Gigondas or Cairanne,” says Deb Worton at HwCg, who work with Jerome Quiot in Châteauneuf, Cave St-Désirat in St-Joseph and Louis Barruol in Gigondas. “French producers have to stop being so preoccupied with this appellation v that appellation, this grape v that grape; and start trying to understand what leads consumers to make the decisions they make.” In contrast, the so-called ‘Crus’ such as Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Châteauneuf-du-Pape are the real success story, albeit in a smaller way. The latter already commands consumer confidence and is recognised as a quality choice. A quick glance along the shelves of the high street market leader offers one possible explanation why the other appellations are on the up. As Worton points out: “I’m sure it’s no coincidence that Tesco have introduced Finest Gigondas, Finest Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Finest Crozes-Hermitage.” Similarly, GAW are launching the new Gabriel Meffre range of Rhône Villages covering the major ACs, e.g. Côtes du Rhône red and white (£6.99) and Gigondas (£9.99). “These are really exciting premium wines that are very well presented,” states Evans. “The message to the consumer is simple: Gabriel Meffre are steeped in the Rhône; if you liked Chasse du Pape, why not try their premiums?” Domaine Bellane – an organic Valréas from Bottle Green selling for £7 - “has enjoyed a steady level of sales growth and is well distributed in various guises” according to Gill. Paul Boutinot has long been active in the southern Rhône making diverse wines in several regions, from the appellation-focused Signature range to New World-leaning red Les Hauts du Mont and the popular Old Git brand, both sourced from Côtes du Ventoux. This region, along with fellow ACs Tricastin, Luberon, Costières-de-Nîmes etc. included in the ‘other Rhône valley’ figures, suffered a 27% downturn in volume. Considering these areas are overrun by holidaying Brits and the great value the wines offer, it’s not obvious why.
Nielsen stats MAT March/April 2004 for GB off-trade Volume % change Average price (9 litre cases) (03 v 04) Total Rhône valley 1,276,600 -5.7 £4.10 £4.30 Côtes du Rhône 895,200 +3.7 £3.60 £3.70 Côtes du Rhône Villages 156,400 -32 £4 £4.30 Côtes du Rhône Crus 123,400 +2.2 £8.50 £9.30 Other Rhône valley 101,500 -27 £3.60 £3.80 Volume by sector, total Rhône valley Share Change 03/04 Average price (04) Mult specialists 6.6% -17% £6.40 Independent specs 3.2% -16% £5.60 Mult grocers 82% -3.8% £4.20 Indep grocers 3.6% -24% £4.20 |
“I’ll be back,” as Austria’s most famous export, Governor Schwarzenegger, once put it. Austrian growers are a little frustrated with being told their wines are fantastic but too expensive. However, they do understand why and appear keen to make a come back. A recent trip across the country's main wine regions ably demonstrated what’s happening in vineyards and cellars there, and what kind of wines are on offer for the UK. So far distribution in the off-trade has been muted, but there are plenty of ideas coming out of Austria on the marketing front. Their new DAC appellation scheme looks interesting, and what about generic PR and the future for brands..? It’s worth remembering Austria isn’t a large wine producer. There’s less than half the area of Germany under vine (although three times New Zealand) divided up among 35,000 growers, including few large producers or co-operatives. Domestic wine consumption is more or less equal to production of 28 million cases (under 1% of the global total), 20% of which was exported in 2003. This overall environment has contributed to investment in high quality niche wine. The climate and geography of Styria in southeast Austria suit the production of occasionally world-class white wines. Near the border of Slovenia, Polz makes classic Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay retailing for £10-15. Wohlmuth does a couple of fine barrel-fermented Sauvignons and their Pinot Noir shows potential too. Neumeister also makes good Sauvignon along with a toasty Pinot Gris, which is full, juicy but for me doesn’t need the oak. Zesty aromatic whites made from Muskateller and Roter Traminer would go well with Asian cuisine. These wines stand up well against say New Zealand at a similar price level. Rust, on the west side of the Neusiedlersee, has a long history as the centre of Ausbruch sweet wines. This part of Burgenland was in Hungary until 1921, a heritage reflected in plantings of Furmint along with Müller Thurgau, Chardonnay, Gelber Muskateller, Sauvignon Blanc, Neuburger, Pinot Blanc, Welschriesling and Pinot Gris, on gentle mostly east-facing slopes close to the lake. To qualify for Ausbruch, all the grapes have to be botrytis-affected and the sugar level at least 27% of the must weight. A group of 18 growers forms the Cercle Ruster Ausbruch, whose wines can be amazingly intense yet balanced with different styles coming through. The prices aren’t unreasonable compared to other top-notch sweeties. Certain areas of Burgenland and particular varieties show impressive potential as Austria’s best red wines. In the north, on the east side of the Neusiedlersee based around Gols, Pannobile is another group initiative comprising 8 members: Renner, Nittnaus, Heinrich, Pittnauer, Leitner, Gsellmann, Achs and Beck. The idea was to create a top blend typical of the region, personalised according to the varieties planted by each grower and winemaking style. Pannobile reds are made up of at least 85% local grapes, usually low yielding Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt (described by Josef Pöckl as “Austrian Merlot”), supplemented by international varieties (Cabernet, Merlot or Syrah) and treated to 16-24 months in barriques. St. Laurent, a cross of Pinot Noir and another unidentified variety, is Austria’s answer to Pinotage but with wider appeal. At between €13-€25 ex-cellars, it’ll be tough going but not impossible. Grosshöflein, west of Rust on the Leithagebirge hills, is home to another cool winery: Kollwentz. The estate grows Chardonnay and Sauvignon for dry and sweet styles, along with the Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt and Cabernet that craft their polished Steinzeiler red. Kollwentz is one of 15 members of an association called Renommierte Weingüter Burgenland, which covers the whole region so there’s a greater diversity of styles represented. Each uses the RWB logo on their capsules and pays a share of marketing costs. A tasting included complex barrel-fermented Chardonnays from Velich, Kracher’s astonishing TBAs and a wide range of flagship reds from Umathum, Igler, Schuster, Kerschbaum, Krutzler, Gesellmann and Leberl. Burgenland can supply characterful reds offering better value, such as the newly listed Blaufränkisch selling for £6.99 in Oddbins. The retailer will also be shipping a Grüner Veltliner at about this price point. James Forbes (assistant buyer) said the previously stocked Polz wines didn’t work “despite the quality as Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc aren’t classically Austrian.” Indigenous varieties – which can be sourced more cheaply but at lower quality from countries surrounding Austria to the east – could add a point of difference to a range. Jonathan Butt of Threshers isn’t convinced: “lesser known wines from St. Laurent, Blaufränkisch etc have little, if any following here. The wines may be fine but the sell is too difficult and demand too small.” Thermenregion to the south of Vienna boasts the rare home-grown white varieties Zierfandler, Rotgipfler and Neuburger. The 9 members of the Thermenwinzer group reveal the variety of winemaking techniques and styles on offer. Rotgipfler responds well to oak handling, as typified by Alphart and Aumann, and is equally successful vinified in an Alsace mould such as Biegler’s and Spaetrot’s. Zierfandler with its fresher acidity ranges from Stadlmann’s floral, peachy and zingy number to the super sweet, seamlessly balanced examples by Schaflerhof and Schellmann. Red highlights take in Fischer’s Grasdental made from Zweigelt, Merlot and Cabernet, and Pinot Noir Grande Reserve from Reinisch. Northwest of here sandwiched between the Weinviertel and Wachau districts, the rocky subsoils of Kamptal and Kremstal charm Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Grüner Veltliners from Willi Bründlmayer and Schloss Gobelsburg demonstrate the differing vinification methods used for this variety. Some undergo modern reductive techniques, and some are made in an oxidative style fermented at higher temperature in cask. The former is zestier and intense, the latter weightier and more complex. Fred Loimer ferments and ages his in casks for 10 months with batonnage. Over in Kremstal at Dr. Unger, New Zealander Brendon Boyle uses only stainless steel without malolactic to highlight the spicy aromatic freshness of Grüner Veltliner. Some of these addictive whites sell for over €15. Moving into Wachau, the sheer terraces rising high up on either side of the Danube are reminiscent of the northern Rhône or Douro, and are planted 45% GV and 40% Riesling. The town of Spitz forms a backdrop to the Riesling cru Singerriedel, perched dangerously on a granite hill. Franz Hirtzberger’s sensational, very dry Riesling from this site retails in Austria for around €40; but not all Wachau wines are that dear e.g. Emmi Knoll, FWW. These producers are members of the Vinea Wachau association, which in 1986 created the novel quality categories Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd also giving an indication of style. Attitudes towards the British market are generally positive but realistic. “For us it’s not a business to export,” Josef Umathum remarks, “we can’t compete in the UK and don’t want to go in at lower prices just to get a presence.” However, Martin Nigl, who’s doing well in America after 10 years there, believes “the timing is right as there’s now a lot of interest in Austrian wines.” Forbes confirms this: “they want to get the quality, price and packaging spot on. They’re keen to do the right thing.” So those brand owners who consider it worthwhile are ready to compete at an elevated if restricted level. At €10-20 or more ex-cellars, the exclusive nature of many of the wines could be a feather in the caps of independent merchants and the likes of Oddbins or Majestic. Butt agrees: “I believe the market is very much in the realms of the specialist independent, as the wine tends to be expensive and requires a hand sell to the enthusiast.” Nevertheless, a £6.50-£7 price point is possible: “you don’t get bargains but you’re not paying too much for what you get,” Forbes says in defence. I can’t see the supermarkets getting too excited, apart from listing in a couple of prestige stores for image. Helen McGinn at Tesco comments: “We have stocked Austrian wines in the past, and whilst the quality is not in question, the wines tended to be more expensive than others of similar quality. Hence sales were extremely low. However, our PDM is still looking for possible listings for the future.” The DAC (Districtus Austria Controllatus) scheme could help, as its main strength is being conceived from a marketing rather than production standpoint. They wanted to make a clear move away from German wine law to communicate where a wine comes from plus what it tastes like, considered more effective than concentrating on grape varieties alone or individual brands. Michael Thurner (Director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board) quotes Chianti, Chablis and Sauternes as comparisons: “We want to make the buying decision easy for the consumer. The idea isn’t to harmonise production and style, but to market wines of a similar style from a particular region.” Weinviertel (north of Vienna) is the first DAC district on the shelves with the spotlight sensibly on Grüner Veltliner, supported by a humorous ‘white pepper’ advertising campaign emphasising the wines’ spicy aromatic character. This could work well, but you have to wonder what UK consumers will make of Weinviertel. Perhaps the starting point should be building ‘brand Austria’ first then regions? However, promoting what the wine tastes like is a bonus and using grape variety on the front label adds something familiar. Despite stylistic differences, Ruster Ausbruch is also an obvious candidate with a clear connection between regional identity and taste profile. Feedback from the industry is positive but raises questions. Willi Bründlmayer believes it could help his region but touches on potential difficulties: “we have many terroirs, microclimates and varieties here; but the single vineyard labelling ideas could work focusing on Grüner Veltliner first then Riesling.” Forbes thinks: “DAC sounds interesting… Austria lacks a Montana or Cloudy Bay.” It’s apparent the formation of like-minded, quality-focused groups is another cost effective way of marketing for individual growers. Taking Pannobile as an example, their specific ‘brand’ identity could easily be transformed into a DAC. Cult wines like the ‘Juwel’ reds from the Mittelburgenland or Opitz sweeties enhance Austria’s image from the top down by attracting press attention. Packaging is also an area where Austrians are often spot on, judging by the stream of stylish labels seen on this trip. The lack of generic campaign in Britain – due to limited budgets and distribution – means importers and retailers will have to be more proactive to succeed with Austria: e.g. targeted tastings or linking up with gastronomic events. There’s a brave new world of wines out there to be discovered, offering good margins for the trade and excitement for the consumer.
Pastis It’s an old cliché – it just doesn’t taste the same back home – but this seems so true when applied to pastis. Best enjoyed sitting outside a bar in the south of France, soaking up the rays and partaking in the full ritual: slowly add water from one of those cute oh-so-French jugs, watch the ice swirl and the drink turn opaque. But this cultural flavour experience doesn’t appear to translate as well to northern Europe and beyond. So who’s drinking pastis – and which brands – in the UK and other countries? A recent trip to Pernod’s production plant in Marseille revealed some of the secrets to making these legendary anise-flavoured drinks, and an insight into better appreciating their mysterious flavours. The city is home to two of the leading brands, Pernod and 51 (the classic local tipple); Ricard, despite its claim ‘Pastis de Marseille’ is actually now made in Lille. Images of the Provençal city perhaps also re-enforce those surrounding its very own aperitif: that café-terrace moment overlooking the Vieux Port, early evening drinking in macho smoky bars… Marseille asserts itself as the birthplace of commercial pastis. Henri-Louis Pernod set up in 1805 initially as a producer of absinthe, which became very popular in France by the 1850s. At the turn of the century, excessive consumption of absinthe was believed to surpass wine prompting its ban in 1915. This allowed the production of pastis to really take off, as people changed the ingredients focusing on anise. By the 1930s, there were many small-scale illicit manufacturers, each using a different recipe and mix, working around the Vieux Port and fines were common. Ricard was the first to put his name on the bottle and one of those who influenced the government into sanctioning pastis as a legitimate business. The Pernod factory is impressively automated and surprisingly low-key with technology dominating any romantic image you might have of pastis. It’s basically made from pure alcohol – which arrives in tankers at 96%, is analysed and nosed to make sure it’s neutral – flavouring extracts (made elsewhere), purified water and sugar. The strongly scented cuverie and laboratory are controlled by just three people, the process being mostly mechanised. The ingredients are added together by weight – each brand or product has a particular recipe – which is calculated on the computer system. It’s all in code: nobody knows the exact constituents (apart from star anise, liquorice and essence of herbs including mint, coriander and fennel) to safeguard the Ricard family’s secret formulae. The mix in each vat is then ‘brewed’ for 20 minutes. The next most important element is the filtration, which affects density, colour etc: 51 has a specific type, there’s another for Pernod. In addition to lab analyses, samples of all products and ingredients are taken from each stage of production and tasted every day. They produce 6 x 200 hectolitre (hl) batches per day of 51 (about 17 million bottles per year including larger sizes); 4 or 5 x 200hl per week of the different Pernod products (4 million bottles); and 30hl every two weeks of Pernod aux extraits de plantes d’Absinthe, Oxygénée and other small run specialities. Different bottlings are done for different markets with the recipe varying accordingly: the Pernod for France is “heavier and stronger,” for Britain “more aromatic.” I tasted the following at room temperature mixed one-fifth pastis and four-fifths water: Pastis 51 ‘2004 collection’ (for Christmas and New Year in laser-etched bottles), 45% - creamy beige colour with orange-brown hints, quite strong liquorice and aniseed aromas, fairly powerful but with nice rounded mouthfeel, herb notes lending a bitter twist to the sweetness (this is sweeter than Pernod), yet finishes smoothly with drier bite. Pernod (export), 40% - much greener colour with yellow and mint tinges, more aromatic and perfumed nose showing floral and citrus notes; these aromas carry to the palate then it turns more liquoricey and sweeter but again balanced, a touch more elegant but also blander. Pernod aux extraits de plantes d’Absinthe, 68% - paler, less vivid grey-green colour and less opaque; very powerful nose showing lots of herbs, floral and liquorice notes, the alcohol is obviously stronger but not overpowering; full-bodied with a kick but has plenty of flavour and aroma, big mouthful leading to bite of slightly bitter herbs and dry finish (no added sugar). Pernod-Ricard has developed a process that reduces the molecules of wormwood to very low levels. Oxygénée, 53% - lightly mint green in colour, can actually see through it; lovely nose displaying quite complex mix of aromatic herbs, lemon and liquorice; powerful yet elegant flavours with bitter herbs v touch of sweetness on the long finish. Henri-Louis Pernod 1805 Anis aux plantes et aux épices, 45% - opaque, deep golden-beige colour; delicious nose: very herby with lavender notes, citrus & orange peel, complex and extremely aromatic; these flavours linger in the mouth with intense herbal and floral characters leading to elegant dry finish, perfumed and very long. The latter speciality products aren’t on sale in the UK, which is a shame although they wouldn’t be an easy sell or have wide appeal. Sales of Pernod to key markets in 2002 were (in litres): France 306,000; UK 614,000 (on average 620K per year); USA 128,000 and Germany 804,000. Distribution in France is split 23% on-trade and 77% off, whereas in the UK it’s 50/50. A different story emerges in comparison to their other brands. Sales of Ricard are 2/3 in France and 1/3 internationally with 30,000 litres per year shipped to Britain, where it’s stocked in selected Sainsbury’s in the south, Francophile restaurants, style bars and no doubt a few independents too. In France, 51 is in national distribution but a significant part of the volume is accounted for in the south (especially Provence-Alps-Côte d’Azur), where it’s brand leader. In terms of export, 51 isn’t sold in the UK but has a presence on France’s borders, particularly Catalonia, Andorra and Italy plus Switzerland and Belgium. What about the profile of the typical pastis drinker? In France it does seem to go beyond middle-aged men in bars: Pernod-Ricard say their consumer “includes young and older adults, male and female.” A blue coloured, ready-to-drink product Pastis Bleu was launched in France with particular success in the south, tellingly “among all age groups.” However, they’re keeping tight-lipped about actual volumes. “Pastis Bleu has not been launched in the UK and there are no plans to do so,” Crispin Stephens commented, brand manager at Pernod-Ricard UK. “The new Pastis drink that has been launched is called Ricard Bouteille – ready to drink with 1 measure of Ricard, 5 measures of water.” It’ll be interesting to follow its progress and who’s consuming it. Pernod also claim to be “in the process of researching average age of drinkers… it’s well balanced between men and women.” Outside of these giant brands, there are several artisan producers making distinctive, high quality anise drinks resurrecting the original blends of the 1930s. These are mostly stocked by a handful of specialist independent shops such as La Maison du Pastis (00 33 (0)4 91 90 86 77, www.lamaisondupastis.com) in Marseille, set up by Frédéric Bernard in 2003. His ‘Tradition’ house label is made by Janot; others include Jean Boyer, Henri Bardouin, LaPouge (based on Ricard’s 1935 recipe), Armand Guy and Jules Girard. These quality products sell for €25-€40 a bottle, but you’d bet a little niche business like this could succeed in say London, by offering tastings and serving tips to help lower the cultural barrier. As Gérard Nyssens (Production Director at Pernod-Ricard) suggested: “they don’t know how to drink or taste it and add too much ice: you need time to let it mix with the water.” Keeping their fingers crossed was never going to be enough for Italian wine producers with a presence on UK off-licence shelves. After at least two successive years of increasing their market share, the figures suggest a downturn in sales. In 2002 Italy lost about 5% of its value share of the take home market, but still occupied third slot with 10-11% in value and 12% in volume. Jan/Feb. 2003 MAT data confirms a further slightly downward trend (all stats ACNielsen). In addition a difficult 2002 vintage resulting in lower volumes and possibly quality isn’t going to help. This makes Italy vulnerable to the USA (world politics aside), in fourth slot in value terms and nearly 9% of volume, with experts there predicting 2-3 years to absorb the excess production of Californian wine (www.winebusiness.com). So we can expect a revitalised export drive at keen prices from across the Atlantic. Sensationally South Africa stole fourth position in volume share last year at 9.5%, by successfully unleashing a host of well made, priced and targeted brands, as well as more premium wines. However it’s certainly not all doom and gloom for Italy. Clued up producers have made major inroads with attractive new wines at all price points, and certain high profile regions and grape varieties already have wide consumer recognition and following. Then there’s the South and Sicily: enthusiastically hyped but arguably still has plenty to offer and deliver in terms of appealing styles, quantity (particularly reds) and quality. So let’s delve deeper into what’s hot from Italy, and the problems and triumphs that lie ahead for retailers and importers. Even with production down by perhaps 12% (rather than the 20%+ horror stories circulating late last year) in 2002, let’s not forget Italy still makes way over 500 million cases of wine a year. So possible supply difficulties in relation to competing countries have to be put in context, as Pierpaolo Petrassi, Commercial Manager at International Wine Services, touches on. “The US could leap ahead if they continue at the same growth, but their average bottle price will also soften. The problem with Italy is Tuscany sees Umbria as the biggest competitor, for example; they’re not thinking globally.” Tony Brown, M.D of Meridian Wines adds: “This year Italy could see a further volume decline with reduced availability and higher pricing on many wines. But there are some good 2002 whites and excellent 2001 reds out there, which should provide the opportunity to consolidate its quality position.” No wonder Italian wine has declined in value with an average retail price of about £3.25 compared with the overall figure of £3.75. Petrassi cites some reasons: “Australian wines at sub £3 have eroded Italy’s and other Old World producers’ presence.” Brown rightly foresees the positive side, “to move away from the bargain basement where Spain and southern France can offer a better deal.” Producers outside the ‘classic’ areas have realised the need to create effective Italian brands to broaden the appeal of their wines, and hence customer base, and improve margins longer term. Canti Rosso and Bianco, priced at £2.99-£3.29 and developed especially for the UK market, were launched last year by family-owned winery Fratelli Martini. These were recently followed by Chardonnay/Pinot Grigio from Veneto and Merlot/Sangiovese from Sicily at £3.99. Gianni Martini remarks: “I have always dreamt of producing ‘Brand Italy’… to create a brand that will place Italian wines in the same position of respect as Italy already holds for design, fashion and food.” He’s putting his money where his mouth is too: Dermot Magee, Sales & Marketing Director at their UK agent D&D, confirms: “A major press campaign will break in May for Canti, and a series of tailor made promotions are being organised with key customers to maintain the high growth rate the brand has achieved to date.” Other brand owners have looked south as well. Casa Girelli’s Canaletto range has expanded from the Veneto and Abruzzo to include reds from Sicily and Puglia too. So why is the South so sexy? “Southern Italy is the place to be for innovation,” says Claire Whitehead, Italian Agency Executive at Western Wines. “The region has huge potential for producing large volumes of high quality wines at a great price. Following heavy investment in both vineyards and wineries, the opportunities are endless. The ‘IGT’ denomination and its flexibility (allowing identifiable region and variety) are put to good use in the south, the birthplace of many emerging brands.” Western Wines recent offerings include Da Luca from Puglia, a Primitivo-Merlot retailing at £4.99, and a new brand from Sicily, Montalto Sangiovese-Nero d’Avola at £4.99 plus Reserve at £6.99. Gerd Stepp at M&S is equally excited: “Southern Italy has been really successful because of its potential to produce outstanding wines from regional grape varieties in considerable quantities. Southern Italy will continue to grow and reach a very significant status, especially for production of red wines in the every day category.” Petrassi, who handles Marc Xero amongst others, adds: “When looking to create brands, in southern Italy you really get what you pay for. They can punch their weight at £4.99 and allow for promoting down, as there’s more margin.” Brown agrees, cautiously: “The potential of southern Italy, Sicily and Puglia in particular, for world-beating mid-priced reds is much discussed, but there’s still a long way to go. The key will be establishing names of varieties, brands and (possibly) regions in consumers’ minds, and this will be a slow process. Varieties such as Negro Amaro, Primitivo, Nero d’Avola and Aglianico all produce wines of quality and individuality.” Meridian’s 2001 Italia Negro Amaro has RRP of £4.99, and they also claim great success in the independent sector with Primario, a limited production 100% barrel-aged Negro Amaro (RRP £6.99). It’s encouraging to see indigenous grapes are gently taking off with off-licence visitors. It’s also easy to grasp the reasoning behind opting for dual varietals on labels – one of them ‘international’ to woo these buyers – apart from stylistic and viticultural considerations. Another hotly debated topic is the Puglian variety Primitivo and the fashion for labelling it as Zinfandel (genetically they’re the same). Stepp states his preference: “I don’t see an obvious reason to use the Zinfandel name, apart from exports to the US. Primitivo gives the wine a uniqueness and its unmistakable origin of Italy.” Whitehead resolutely agrees: “Currently all of our Italian Primitivo is labelled as such, and this is something we are not looking to change.” Petrassi differs a little: “We’re still getting behind Primitivo with a lot of wines; the Trulli label switched to Zin to give it a point of difference… it’s more recognisable.” Sicily finally seems to be matching up to expectations, and, unlike many other areas, had a very good 2002 vintage. “Stunning Sicilian wines offering excellent value are there for the taking,” claims Whitehead, “it’s now down to the trade to change the consumer’s perception.” Petrassi is similarly categorical: “Without a shadow of a doubt, at £3-5 nobody can touch Sicily.” This doesn’t mean buyers are moving way from established classics like Chianti. Taking Tesco as an example, they list seven different Chiantis from basic to icon (Fonterutoli), own and proprietor’s brands; an independent may well list more. “Melini has done very well,” comments Petrassi, “but is the brand Melini or Chianti?” It’s also interesting to note reds from the Marche feature strongly in Tesco’s range. As for white wines, Pinot Grigio is still the big story but “grape prices are unsustainably high, sooner or later the bubble will burst,” predicts Brown. “Soave, Orvieto or even Frascati could benefit but my money would be on wines with less historical baggage – Gavi has great potential if prices remain at current levels.” Trentino in the north is underdeveloped and offers many fine wines, such as Cavit’s new range ‘Bottega Vinai’ at around £7.50, including a barrique-aged Merlot, Pinot Noir and ripe honeyed style of Pinot Grigio. Does all this talk of regions and varieties help or confuse the consumer? IGT simplifies marketing by focusing on grape variety, perhaps brand name and a broader saleable area, such as Toscana or Sicilia rather than one of hundreds of minor sub-districts the Italians specialise in. And what of education? “Italy needs to be promoted as a whole, then the regions,” Petrassi sums up. “It’s the only major one who doesn’t have a generic campaign.” This is a high hurdle for Italy: centred on complex local issues and funding, spent on increasingly obscure regional showcases in London, what is the Trade Centre’s role and why isn’t it focusing on a concerted Italian wine campaign? The main annual tasting event – the heavily attended ‘Definitive Italian’ in July – is organised and paid for by UK importers and their principals. Nevertheless all this enthusiasm, innovation and potential, backed up by well-established names, decent quantity/quality of wines and positive lifestyle images; coupled with the hard work and success previously seen here, should ensure that longer term Italy can again overcome any temporary decline. Portugal - 1 November 2002 issue Widely tipped as the next big thing, Portuguese wines frustratingly don’t seem to be grabbing the imagination of wine drinkers and flying off the shelves... Much has been said about the diversity of its indigenous grape varieties and regions, unique points of difference, advances in quality and value for money, and quite rightly so. However most consumers still don’t appear to recognise or understand and hence choose the wines, but do like the styles and flavours, when given the opportunity to taste them. So what’s happening on the ground in Portugal and over here in wine shops and supermarkets? One of the most exciting (although least picturesque) regions is the Alentejo, a vast area bordering Spain that occupies the south-eastern chunk of this beautiful country. Amongst several dynamic producers here, Herdade do Esporão make high quality red and white blends and have been experimenting with varietal wines, such as Aragonês (aka Tinta Roriz, both clones of the Spanish Tempranillo), the white Roupeiro and now Syrah/Shiraz. The latter shows real promise in the best vineyard sites, but are the wines very Portuguese? “With Syrah we can get away with a pure varietal; Cabernet, Merlot etc. are best for blending,” commented Nick Oakley, UK agent for leading Alentejo producer João Portugal Ramos, who makes traditional blends and varietal wines, Portuguese and French. “I don’t see it as a change in direction: good wine is good wine. Indigenous varieties are a weakness in terms of marketing and sales, but highly interesting otherwise. Portuguese reds are world class.” Sogrape is also active in the Alentejo, having successfully launched the good value £4.99 red Vinha do Monte as part of its regional range and now premium varietals Trincadeira, Aragonês and Alfrocheiro produced at Herdade do Peso. “Sogrape relies solely on indigenous grapes, normally blended,” said Johnny Powell at distributor Stevens Garnier. “The new varietals are to a degree experimental, made in small quantities…an opportunity to learn about their own grape varieties.” Sarah Turner, Product Development Manager for Portugal at Tesco, expanded on the “tricky debate.” “Indigenous varieties are what makes Portuguese wines so interesting, however commercially it’s much more of a struggle to sell grape varieties that customers haven’t heard of and can’t pronounce.” Waitrose has been a keen supporter of Portugal and Alentejo wines, particularly at the higher end. A spokesperson commented: “we prefer to back the indigenous grapes that give Portugal a point of difference.” Turner stated further: “As for international varieties, I think more work needs to be done to really understand what works well. Syrah, especially in the Alentejo, is looking as though it has great potential.” In the extreme and stunning landscape of the Douro Valley, virtually everybody is now making table wines in addition to Ports. Here ‘foreign’ grapes have so far been shunned, as exemplified by Quinta do Portal, who create an impressive range overall from Vintage Ports to rosé to Grand Reserva reds. Their new young viticulturalist Miguel Sousa showed great enthusiasm and respect for Touriga Nacional on a recent trip (as their guest). “We want to increase plantings to maybe 15%. We need Tinta Roriz for fruit and ageing potential, but have to control yields to 1kg per plant for really top wine.” Turner cautiously agreed: “In terms of quality, there’s no doubt that grapes such as Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz in particular can produce fantastic wines but are understandably confusing for customers.” Director of Portal, Pedro Branco summed up their ambitious hopes for fine Portuguese wines: “65-70% of our sales is Port, the idea is to reverse this towards table wine.” Caves Aliança, based in Bairrada, like many have been purchasing vineyards and making wines in other areas including the Douro. Their Foral label starts at £4.49 retail, and they’ve just released a super-premium red from Quinta dos Quatro Ventos, produced from Tinta Roriz, Touriga and Tinta Barroca in partnership with Michel Rolland and aimed squarely at niche export markets. Importer Meridian Wines’ portfolio also sources from Dão (south of the Douro), the Alentejo and Palmela (on the Setúbal peninsula facing Lisbon). Mario Neves at Aliança made some interesting comments on sales: “Portugal is having problems with wines considered generic, not the cheapest at £2.99 where price/quality ratio is good, but at £3.99-4.99 competing against the New World. But we are having success with wines from £4.99 to £6.99 and even some top ones.” DFJ Vinhos has gained listings for its Grand’Arte varietal range, of which perhaps the £4.99 Alvarinho/Chardonnay 2000 from Estremadura (central coastal region) is the most significant. Not only do the two varieties perform together in terms of attractive style and quality, but the magic ‘Chardy’ should help it off the shelf. Oakley touched on this too: “Our challenge is to put something familiar on the label; we’re introducing three new wines made from a mix of Portuguese and international varieties. Grapes contribute to the brand, Cabernet Sauvignon is seen as a brand.” Powell agreed to an extent: “It’s all down to education…international varieties help draw attention to them, but the future lies in Portuguese varieties.” Oakley added: “If people buy (Cabernet Sauvignon/ Aragonês), they’ve gone through the gate. This might lead to them trying a pure Aragonês.” The Ribatejo region to the east of Estremadura is delivering well-made wines at all price levels. DFJ Vinhos’ Grand’Arte Trincadeira is higher priced than the aforementioned white and impresses with its Old/New World chunky style yet finesse; JP Ramos sources his great value quaffing red Tâmara from this area; and Ben Ellis Wines ship the sensational Quinta de Lagoalva de Cima ‘Alfrocheiro’, an overlooked grape mostly encountered in Dão. And what’s the potential for white wines? “Not really, we only stock one Vinho Verde,” Waitrose commented. Powell countered: “The Wine Society was surprised by the success they had with Sogrape’s Vinho Verde, introduced this summer.” Muscat/Moscatel can blossom into lovely fresh dry whites in the right hands: Albis from José Maria da Fonseca and Fontanário de Pegões are good examples. And let’s not forget local varieties Maria Gomes/Fernão Pires, Antão Vaz or Bical…
Bordeaux 57 Appellations, 12000 growers, 116000 hectares of vines and 6.8 million hectolitres – that’s about 75½ million cases of wine... Welcome to the diverse world of Bordeaux basking in all its glory and vastness, complexity and mediocrity. How can one region making so much wine send out a consistent message and product and please everyone from struggling grower to confused consumer? On the one hand there’s the aloof aristocracy of top quality Châteaux, who command very high prices and represent less than 5% of the total. On the other a mass of often indifferent wines that lead to disappointment with the area as a whole. And in between many unknown ACs or Petits Châteaux, which really do have something interesting to offer. So what’s the way forward from within an institutionalised culture of ‘we make it so we have to sell it’? The French themselves still consume over 60% of Bordeaux wines, which are at home a more familiar or acceptable proposition to the majority of wine drinkers. To revive and maintain exports, savvy producers and marketers are creating and building new brands and styles. Is the taste and price right for the UK? To set the scene, a few statistics: at towards 3¾ million cases, Bordeaux has around 4% market share here in volume and 6% in value (source: customs). In the off-trade 60% of these sales are Claret, AC Bordeaux or Bordeaux Supérieur; with 28% dry white, and Médoc/Graves and Saint-Émilion/Pomerol/Fronsac each taking only 4% (source: Stats MR). Although the trend over the last ten years is up significantly, overall imports decreased by 3% last year (source: CIVB – customs). CVBG – Dourthe is one of a visible handful of négociant/producer/estate owners, who appear to be making their mark with well-made brands such as Numéro 1 and Beau Mayne, new in the UK. Justin Howard-Sneyd at Sainsbury’s commented: “Marketing of brands needs to improve. CVBG’s new brand Beau Mayne is promising. Negociant system should be capable of making credible consistent brands if they have some degree of control over production. Most of the best ones have a good relationship with regular growers.” This point was reiterated by Jean-Marie Chadronnier, managing director of CVBG: “Many small growers are very good viticulturalists but don’t know how to deal with their grapes and can’t afford the kind of cellar you need to make the style of wine people want. Companies like Dourthe are starting to encourage these people.” Calvet was positioned at number 20 in the recent OLN top selling wines’ chart in multiple specialists and no. 35 in the grocers (source: ACNielsen), up on last year. “Calvet Bordeaux Reserve is the new market leader having taken over from Mouton Cadet,” confirmed Justin Howard-Sneyd. “In general Calvet understand the UK market well.” Chris Hardy, Majestic Wine Warehouses’ Bordeaux Buyer reminded us of problems over pricing and quality: “Cheap Bordeaux and Bordeaux brands are decreasing in sales. The consumer has been frightened away by poor quality of branded generic Bordeaux, and this has had a negative effect on even the better branded wines such as Calvet Reserve Claret. MWW customers now want to spend £7 upwards on Bordeaux to ensure they get the right quality.” Paul Williams of Pawthewine Consultancy and Carringtons, an independent merchant with three shops in Manchester, expanded on the price/style dilemma: “I like the new brands like Rothschild’s generic range and Sirius, I’m sure there is room for more. I think the basic problem at the low end is the wines still have to shake off the stigma of thin angular and brittle wines that lack fruit; because of this I think people have to trade up to £7-8 per bottle to get the body required, and this puts them off.” “Bordeaux is not a region to produce high yield, good quality, low price wines,” Jean-Marie Chadronnier added, “(it) has to focus on its specificities caractère, élégance, finesse while showing what consumers like: colour, concentration, silkiness and pleasure. Bordeaux can be very competitive at £5-6, but the largest volume is sold at £4 or below! It’s time for a change…” Yvon Mau, now part of the Freixenet empire, is increasingly working on the branded side with Premius, an AC Bordeaux that sells for £6.49 in Unwins. “It’s a Merlot dominated blend with a proportion of new oak, meant to be drunk young,” explained Richard Bampfield M.W. “The biggest issue for Yvon Mau is quality. There have been problems persuading growers that quality pays, as they will pay more for quality and consistency and have 4 or 5 trained viticulturalists helping.” Undiscovered Appellations such as Côtes de Bourg, Blaye and Castillon are a source of good value, decent quality reds in the mid price sector. Safeway launched a £4.99 brand this year called Right Bank Merlot Cabernet Franc from the latter AC, made by French-based Australian winemaker David Morrison. Paul Williams also commented “the Côtes de Castillon seems to be on the up for Petit Château”. Dourthe owns Château La Garde in Pessac-Léognan, which makes an impressive red and white. This cru of the Graves has made strides in quality and wine styles but suffers from a lack of recognition in the UK: “Pessac-Léognan is not known, it’s not easy” Sarah Chadwick of Dourthe added. The Bordeaux generic advertising and PR campaign, despite its high spending high visibility impact, has been criticised. Chris Hardy said: “Unlikely that they are worthwhile. The consumer has been frightened off by excessive pricing and poor quality offered by the Bordelais. Advertising is unlikely to entice them back. Efforts need to be made in the vineyard to dramatically improve quality in the sub-£5 sector, and then customers need to be re-educated with tastings.” Justin Howard-Sneyd backed up these sentiments: “Worthless. The effort should be on quality through enforcing the AC system and taking out the poor liquid from AC Bordeaux.” Fortunately for Bordeaux an increasing number of very influential players are listening and taking action.
More to follow (perhaps): a handful of other features published in OLN between 1998-2002...
ALL ARTICLES REPRODUCED HERE © RESERVED RICHARD JAMES
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Growers
in the Fenouillèdes area, bridging Corbières and French Catalonia, are
also actively promoting themselves. Their recent trade fair revealed a
number of up-and-coming quality estates keen to export. Richard Case of
Domaine Pertuisane, who’s working with Planet of the Grapes on New Oxford
St, described the pull of the area: “The Grenache is unparalleled anywhere
in France; the best three places are Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Priorat and
Maury.” Other names to look out for include L’Edre, Clos Origine, Karolina,
Terre Rousse, Duran, Balmière, Rivaton and Soulanes. Nearby between Millas
and Estagel, Jean-Paul and Cyril Henriquès have done sterling work
restoring Domaine Força Réal. Their ‘entry level’ label is Mas de la
Garrigue, and the superb 2003 Les Hauts de Força Réal is listed by Mark
Hughes’ Real Wine Company for £10.
It’s
difficult to put a date on when, where and why Italy’s runaway success
took off. Andrew Bird at Sainsbury’s thinks that “sales started to get
real traction in the nineties, when consumers started to purchase more
wine in supermarkets.” James Griswood at the Thresher Group quite rightly
suggests that “part of this success is the ease of pronunciation and
easily remembered name, and also the ‘please all, offend none’ style of
wine.” Tony Brown MW, of Meridian-Boutinot (also agent for Cave de
Turckheim, supplier of M&S’s groundbreaking Pinot Grigio-labelled Alsace
wine), hasn’t noticed any of Pinot Grigio’s popularity tailing off: “it’s
going very well at every level.” Meridian does a range of Pinot Grigios
from Trentino-Alto Adige based producer Ca’Vit, whose export manger
Claudio Gambarotto agreed that “the variety is here to stay, if it remains
affordable. Most thought sales would decrease, but it’s become an
international grape like Chardonnay and Riesling.”
So
it’s not surprising that German, American, Argentinean, Moldovan and now
French winemakers are going for Grigio rather than Gris. Except for those
estates around the world, in particular New Zealand, who want to make a
statement, as Bird noted. “Non-Italian producers, who wish to distance
themselves from the more neutral styles of Pinot Grigio, make a deliberate
point of labelling their wine Pinot Gris.” The flipside of Pinot Grigio
mania is that it’s arguably overshadowing other Italian whites with more
character, which consequently aren’t given prominent, or any shelf space
and actively promoted. In the hand sell environment of the independents,
obscure yet interesting wines such as Falanghina (Naples area and beyond),
Nosiola (indigenous to Trentino, dry and sweet styles), Grecanico or Inzolia (both Sicily) could maybe find a niche. But what about in the
multiples?
Once upon a time in the South…there were wines called Corbières and
Coteaux du Languedoc. Now sweeping changes are afoot to both
rationalise and diversify the AOC hierarchy and names across the
Languedoc-Roussillon. An unenviable task for a region covering
300,000 hectares, where entrenched (and occasionally dangerous)
tradition goes hand in hand with progressive export-driven
producers. So watch out for La Clape, Grés de Montpellier,
Saint-Chinian Berlou and straight Languedoc. Confused? Well, there is
admirable logic behind all of this.
For
a vast varied (and variable) region like Corbières, village appellations
seem to make sense. Producers in areas designated in the future aspiring
to quality, individuality and better prices will therefore be able to
differentiate from mass market wines. The terroir of Boutenac is on the
cards for 2005; 10 further possible sub-zones include Lézignan and Durban.
Interestingly Carignan must comprise at least 30% of the blend,
potentially allowing those with old vines and faith in this maligned
variety to shine. Similarly, two distinct sub-appellations have been
created in Saint-Chinian: Berlou and Roquebrun (even if the communes in
each overlap!). Yields are set at 40 hl/ha (with buffer of 50) featuring
an elevated proportion of Grenache, Mourvèdre and/or Syrah. The quality
achieved by many in the existing sub-zone of Minervois La Livinière shows
it can work. The difficulty will be in trying to communicate the message
to wine-interested consumers.
“Ventoux & Luberon tend
to be strong and reliable in that ‘middle’ range, both red and
white,” Borges believes. Pierpaolo Petrassi at IWS agrees: “Those good
value satellite appellations really struggle to get past gatekeepers,
although the wine styles stack up well.” There’s also much debate about
varietals and whether leading with Syrah or Grenache in classic blends is
the way forward, depending on desired style or winemaking philosophy.
Despite the recent blip, the future could still be bright for the region’s
wines. Worton summed up the mood: “we’re great believers in the potential
for the Rhône. Its time will come again!”