Lockdown bubbly of the moment

Prestige Cava Rosado & Prestige Cava Brut

At first, I thought this dynamic duo were the usual Marks & Spencer Cavas with flashy new labels and a price rise, but they are additional to the range and definitely noticeably tastier and toastier quality-wise for the £10 price tag.

Bubbly of the moment: Cava

Frankly, almost always more interesting than Prosecco (unless you pay for some of the top names), here are five Catalan fizz favourites enjoyed in recent times.

Vilarnau Rosé Brut Reserva (12% abv) - Toasty, red-fruity and full-flavoured, this delicious Cava Rosado is based on Garnacha (Grenache) and Pinot Noir. Tesco was 'clearing' it out for £8 (it's gone already)...

Spain: Cava

Perelada Reserva
castilloperelada.com

A trio of tasty 'fizzes of the moment' have also inspired a timely update to my Cava mini-guide kick-started back in 2006, which I’ve now teleported across from ‘old’ WineWriting.com and carefully stored in a new ‘Spain page’ nestling among the ‘wine words’ archive. Click here to check it out, which will soon be plumped up with other hot Spanish tasting and touring features such as: tripping, sampling and eating in dreamy Castilla - León wine country (experienced first hand and penned in 2009); cutting-edge tasting reports such as ‘new wave’ Spain, Monastrell from Jumilla and ‘Rioja-free zone’; various winemaker snapshots and wine reviews from across the country and more besides…

Spain: Castillo de Perelada, Cava / Empordà-Costa Brava

Castillo de Perelada: Cava / Empordà-Costa Brava
Empordà-Costa Brava is a small wine region in the northeast corner of Catalonia, in the heart of which you'll find the attractive town of Peralada (Catalan spelling) not too far from Figueres, home of the magnificent eggs-and-baguettes Dalí museum. You can visit the old Castillo de Perelada cellars, where they still age their top of the range wines, but the main winemaking facilities are in Girona and Villafranca. They also have a nice wine shop and café, so you can stock up after a guided tour and posh lunch in the casino, or inexpensive one at the restaurant in the square across the road! I think they're producing some of the finest Cavas you'll find anywhere, as well as a good range of reds, whites and rosés. Tasted Sept-Nov 2005:

 Cava Brut Reserva non-vintage (NV) (Macabeu Parellada Xarello) - Subtle floral almond biscuit aromas, more chocolatey on the palate with crisp dry and tight length. Nice with chocolate and coconut sponge. €4 88
 Cava Brut Rosado NV (Monastrell Garnacha) - Deliciously frothy summer fruit cocktail, leading to fresh choco-nutty off-dry finish. €4.50 90
 2002 Cava Brut Nature (Macabeu Parellada Xarello) - You'll think it's Champagne: really quite refined with subtle intensity of yeasty oily almond flavours, crisp elegant length and very dry refreshing finish. About €6-7 a bottle! 90+
 2004 Blanc de Blancs (Garnacha Blanca Macabeu Chardonnay 12.5%) - Offers good depth of nutty and oily fruit v zesty citrus edge; aromatic start then fills out on the palate to more buttery and peachy, yet finishes crisp and long. Bargain at €3.  87
 Blanc Pescador Vino de Aguja NV (11.5%) - Refreshingly unusual dry white showing crisp yeasty gummy fruit with nutty mineral notes, slightly sparkling too with light elegant finish. Seafood delight. 85
 2004 Rosado (Cariñena Garnacha Tempranillo 13%) - Quite fine rosé showing lovely raspberry and rose petal aromas, medium-full weight of fruit finishing more elegant, crisp and dry. About €3 87
 2002 Tinto Crianza (Garnacha Tempranillo Cabernet Sauvignon 13%) - Try with smoked bacon and spinach pasta: developing smoky leather notes underneath a savoury damson and raisin heart, medium-full in the mouth with dry grip and a vanilla-oak coating. €4 87

Latest Perelada wines here (Spanish "wines of the moment") and here (Cava guide).

Spain, Catalonia: posh Cava

In light of recent independence aspiring events in the region, there will probably be as many who are unhappy as are happy with the post title above placing Spain and Catalonia together on one line separated by nothing more than a simple comma. That's enough topical politics on WineWriting.com, which will remain neutral except to say that there really are some delicious examples of the classic Catalan fizz out there offering great value for money, especially if you pay a little more for better bottles such as Vintage or Brut Nature styles...

Spain: Llopart Cava - Upper Penedès

Or "Alt" in Catalan: the Can Llopart wine estate is indeed lost up in the Penedes hills a few kilometres south of Sant Sadurni (and about 45 minutes west of Barcelona, or two hours if you time it wrong traffic wise like I did) with vineyards planted from 370 to 420 metres altitude (1300 ft above sea level). The elegantly landscaped winery and old family villa lying a little higher up, surrounded by 85 ha (210 acres) of handsome terraced vineyards (planted with Catalan and French varieties), do make a pretty picture as you'll see from the sumptuous photos on their website (link at bottom. This peaceful spot has lovely views all around, and you quickly forget you're not that far from the not-so-pretty western side of Barcelona with its big airport, heavy industry, towering new development etc.

Llopart is still very much a family affair - they all appear to have a role whether office, cellar or vineyard - as I discovered in late June 2010 when tasting with Jesi Llopart i Llopart (the full family name) and soon met her brother and dad. There's a 14th Century Latin document displayed on the wall mentioning an ancestor (Leopardi, whose name's used for one of their Cava cuvées: see notes below) who was allocated some vineyards here; and they first made bottle-fermented wines in the late 19th Century. Fascinating stuff, I hear you say, but what are the wines like now? I first tried their Cava range back in 2008 and was very impressed, so it was good to have the opportunity to call in and taste them again in situ; confirming they really do give you quality and style (and hence the prices starting at €10 a bottle in Spain).

"We're now almost entirely certified organic," Jesi added, "but we've always only ever used sulphur and copper sulphate treatments (sanctioned by organic viticulture regs) in the vineyard." She continued: "We usually start picking in mid August, which is later than elsewhere in the region... the Cavas are aged from 18 months to five years on the lees, with an average of about three years (i.e. longer than most), and we shake up the lees half way through (adds extra flavour complexity)." Their Brut Nature styles (= "zero dosage"), which I'm particularly fond of if done well, are very dry and even the Brut Cavas have half as much residual sugar (RS) as many producers' (and Champagnes too, by the way). US importer Fine Estates from Spain in Massachusetts lists the Leopardi and rosé; and some of their wines are available in Belgium, Germany and Japan (but not the UK at the moment unfortunately).

2009 Vitis (Xarel.lo, Subirat Parent, Muscat 12% alc.) - juicy lees-tinged and aromatic with banana and grape notes; turning to greener fruit edges with crisp juicy and gummy mouth-feel, quite zingy finish although not so dry. 80+

2009 Clos dels Fossils (mostly Chardonnay + Xarel.lo 12.5% alc.) - very light creamy oak vs peachy and slightly exotic fruit; zesty and crisp with subtle lees notes, refreshing and quite elegant finish. 85+

2007 Cava Reserva Brut Nature (Macabeu Xarel.lo Parellada Chardonnay, 11.5% alc., 2 g/l RS, 2+ years lees-ageing) - subtle toasted oat cake vs aniseed notes; clean crisp and intense palate with attractive subtle acidity, turns a touch toastier and richer to finish vs crisp and very refreshing. 89+

2004 Leopardi Gran Reserva Brut Nature (Macabeu Xarel.lo Parellada Chardonnay, 12% alc., 4+ years, 2 g/l RS) - enticingly toasty oily nose, richer and "sweeter" profile than above (although not sweet) vs still very crisp vs oily finish; has more flavour perhaps but somehow a bit flatter too in the end, lacks the poise of some of the others. 89+?

2005 Imperial Gran Reserva Brut (Macabeu Xarel.lo Parellada, 3.5+ years, 5 g/l RS) - pretty toasty with fruit cake and chocolate aromas/flavours vs fine and intense with refreshing acidity; quite mouth-coating and textured yet still surprisingly nimble with only 11.5% alc. Nice balance and class. 90+

2004 Ex-Vite Gran Reserva Brut (old vine Xarel.lo & Macabeu, 12% alc., 5+ years incl. some barrel ageing and reserve wines, 6 g/l RS) - rich and creamy nose and palate, oily and rounded with yeasty bite and again fresh acid underneath; delicious oat cake and chocolate finish vs elegant cut, wow. A foodie Cava: dessert or main course even I'd say! 94

2006 Microcosmos Reserva Rosé Brut Nature (85% Pinot Noir 15% Monastrell, 12% alc., 2+ years, 2 g/l RS) - attractive mix of yeasty intensity, ripe red fruit cocktail and cherry cake; tight crisp mouth-feel with light red fruit bitter twist, long and lively finish. Delicious. 92+

2007 Rosé Brut (Monastrell Garnacha Pinot Noir, 11.5% alc., 18+ months, 7 g/l RS) - lovely fruity style, a tad sweeter than above although still lively and quite crisp; nice strawberry and oat biscuit to finish vs intense and refreshing. 89+

2006 Castell de Subirats Tinto Selección (Merlot, Ull de Llebre = Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon 13.5% alc.) - touches of coconut and vanilla oak on the nose vs maturing savoury notes, smoky vs cassis and soy sauce too on the palate; fairly concentrated and soft textured vs a bit of grip with nice balance; attractive style with "sweet/savoury" finish and underlying oomph too. 88+

Previous vintages of Llopart here (Cava guide).

llopart.es

Spain: Catalonia & Aragón

Here are four tasty "wines of the moment" worth looking out for, sourced from two almost neighbouring, dynamic regions in northeast Spain, which are newish releases from Spanish specialist importer Burridges of Arlington St. based in Sussex, England, who supplies wine shops throughout the UK and Ireland. Stockists for the Cava include Firth Wines, Thomas Panton, some branches of Spirited Wines and members of the Merchant Vintners consortium: such as S.H.Jones, Portland Wine, House of Townend, Wallaces, Wineservice, The Vineyard (IOM) and Tanners. Retail price is about £8-£10 a bottle. More info @ burridgewine.com.

Castell d'Olérdola - Cava

I first came across this good-value Cava label in supermarkets and wine shops when I lived up the coast a bit from Barcelona for nine months back in the not too dim and distant. They're already listed in my Cava mini-guide, so it was good to retry a couple from this range made by the well-known Castillo Perelada group. Both wines sampled here see around 12 months lees-ageing in bottle, although the Reserva is then matured in their cavernous cellars for up to two more years after 'disgorgement' (ejecting the yeast sediment). They also produce Kosher Cava too, by the way.

Rosado (Trepat, Monastrell; 11.5% alc.) - the first one is a rare red Catalan variety, the second is what the Spanish call Mourvèdre; then again, they can call this Med-est of reds what they like, it all came from Spain originally! Quite delicate rosé fizz with lightly toasty notes vs red fruit cocktail, rounded off-dry vs lively mouth-feel and finish.

Reserva (Macabeu, Xarel.lo, Parellada; 11.5%) - made from the three white Catalan staples: classier and drier, quite rich with oat biscuit flavours vs intense and crisp-ish. Nice quality fizz.

Bodegas Esteban Martín - Cariñena

This relatively small region lies east of Calatayud and west of Catalunya, and its vineyards are found on a dramatic plateau at 400 to 800m altitude making it a little cooler in summer (but still hot and dry) and pretty cold in winter. Established in 2003, Viñedos y Bodegas Esteban Martín is a modern family-run winery based in Alfamén smack in the middle of Cariñena, and is circled by a whopping 150 hectares (375 acres) of their own vines mixing Spanish and French varieties.

Vinem Crianza red 2008 (mostly old-vine Garnacha, Cabernet, Syrah, Merlot; 14% alc.) - touches of oak grain adding coco notes and texture, quite lush and plummy with sweet fruit vs savoury edges, chunky and powerful with well-balanced oak / tannins / alcohol vs attractive fruit.

Vinem red 2010 (Garnacha, Syrah; 13.5%) - peppery with black cherry and liquorice, soft fruity style vs a hint of dry grip and oomph, attractive easy-drinking red with some guts too.

Zeitgeisty wines

Zeitgeisty is admittedly a little literary and pretentious, and I wasn't aware it was a word as such, in the adjective form with a 'y' ending, until I saw it recently in a one-line review on the back cover of a new book (quoting a well-known writer so it must be okay). Any road, this latest batch of wine buy tips kicks off with a handful of tasty drops of bubbly, which always has a certain 'spirit of the times' feel about it on any occasion and any time of year, especially to toast in winter drawing to a close sooner rather than later.

 

Spain: Cava guide

Cava mini-guide
"Creative Catalan bubbles..."

"I'm not going to over-bore you with the full-monty geographical or technical stuff, as the Cava region is quite vast and extends beyond Catalunya actually (but there is some of that in it, a hint of winemaking talk and fascinating export stats)... This gradually expanding wee guide, originally published in 2008 and updated a few times a year since, is more about bringing your attention to a few lesser-known sparkling gems and hopefully also encouraging you to explore beyond Barcelona and the region's nice beaches and coastal towns, out into real Cava country... head for those green hills!" Includes wines from these featured stand-out Cava wineries: Llopart, Carles Andreu, Perelada, Parxet, Raimat, Bach, Lavernoya, Mont Àrac, Blancher, Parató, Loxarel, Enric Nadal, Vallformosa, Chozas Carrascal and many many more...
Updated August 2015 - buy this mini-guide for just £3 - click here for more info and to buy it with Paypal...

Spain: Llopart, al Límit, Ijalba, Parra-Jimenez, Parxet/Alella/Tionio, Bonastre, Ètim, Palacio Vega, Raimat

Llopart Cava - Upper Penedès

Or "Alt" in Catalan: the Can Llopart wine estate is indeed lost up in the Penedes hills a few kilometres south of Sant Sadurni (and about 45 minutes west of Barcelona, or two hours if you time it wrong traffic wise like I did) with vineyards planted from 370 to 420 metres altitude (1300 ft above sea level). The elegantly landscaped winery and old family villa lying a little higher up, surrounded by 85 ha (210 acres) of handsome terraced vineyards (planted with Catalan and French varieties), do make a pretty picture as you'll see from the sumptuous photos on their website (link at bottom. This peaceful spot has lovely views all around, and you quickly forget you're not that far from the not-so-pretty western side of Barcelona with its big airport, heavy industry, towering new development etc.
Llopart is still very much a family affair - they all appear to have a role whether office, cellar or vineyard - as I discovered in late June 2010 when tasting with Jesi Llopart i Llopart (the full family name) and soon met her brother and dad. There's a 14th Century Latin document displayed on the wall mentioning an ancestor (Leopardi, whose name's used for one of their Cava cuvées: see notes below) who was allocated some vineyards here; and they first made bottle-fermented wines in the late 19th Century. Fascinating stuff, I hear you say, but what are the wines like now? I first tried their Cava range back in 2008 and was very impressed, so it was good to have the opportunity to call in and taste them again in situ; confirming they really do give you quality and style (and hence the prices starting at €10 a bottle in Spain).
"We're now almost entirely certified organic," Jesi added, "but we've always only ever used sulphur and copper sulphate treatments (sanctioned by organic viticulture regs) in the vineyard." She continued: "We usually start picking in mid August, which is later than elsewhere in the region... the Cavas are aged from 18 months to five years on the lees, with an average of about three years (i.e. longer than most), and we shake up the lees half way through (adds extra flavour complexity)." Their Brut Nature styles (= "zero dosage"), which I'm particularly fond of if done well, are very dry and even the Brut Cavas have half as much residual sugar (RS) as many producers' (and Champagnes too, by the way). US importer Fine Estates from Spain in Massachusetts lists the Leopardi and rosé; and some of their wines are available in Belgium, Germany and Japan (but not the UK at the moment unfortunately).
2009 Vitis (Xarel.lo, Subirat Parent, Muscat 12% alc.) - juicy lees-tinged and aromatic with banana and grape notes; turning to greener fruit edges with crisp juicy and gummy mouth-feel, quite zingy finish although not so dry. 80+
2009 Clos dels Fossils (mostly Chardonnay + Xarel.lo 12.5% alc.) - very light creamy oak vs peachy and slightly exotic fruit; zesty and crisp with subtle lees notes, refreshing and quite elegant finish. 85+
2007 Cava Reserva Brut Nature (Macabeu Xarel.lo Parellada Chardonnay, 11.5% alc., 2 g/l RS, 2+ years lees-ageing) - subtle toasted oat cake vs aniseed notes; clean crisp and intense palate with attractive subtle acidity, turns a touch toastier and richer to finish vs crisp and very refreshing. 89+
2004 Leopardi Gran Reserva Brut Nature (Macabeu Xarel.lo Parellada Chardonnay, 12% alc., 4+ years, 2 g/l RS) - enticingly toasty oily nose, richer and "sweeter" profile than above (although not sweet) vs still very crisp vs oily finish; has more flavour perhaps but somehow a bit flatter too in the end, lacks the poise of some of the others. 89+?
2005 Imperial Gran Reserva Brut (Macabeu Xarel.lo Parellada, 3.5+ years, 5 g/l RS) - pretty toasty with fruit cake and chocolate aromas/flavours vs fine and intense with refreshing acidity; quite mouth-coating and textured yet still surprisingly nimble with only 11.5% alc. Nice balance and class. 90+
2004 Ex-Vite Gran Reserva Brut (old vine Xarel.lo & Macabeu, 12% alc., 5+ years incl. some barrel ageing and reserve wines, 6 g/l RS) - rich and creamy nose and palate, oily and rounded with yeasty bite and again fresh acid underneath; delicious oat cake and chocolate finish vs elegant cut, wow. A foodie Cava: dessert or main course even I'd say! 94
2006 Microcosmos Reserva Rosé Brut Nature (85% Pinot Noir 15% Monastrell, 12% alc., 2+ years, 2 g/l RS) - attractive mix of yeasty intensity, ripe red fruit cocktail and cherry cake; tight crisp mouth-feel with light red fruit bitter twist, long and lively finish. Delicious. 92+
2007 Rosé Brut (Monastrell Garnacha Pinot Noir, 11.5% alc., 18+ months, 7 g/l RS) - lovely fruity style, a tad sweeter than above although still lively and quite crisp; nice strawberry and oat biscuit to finish vs intense and refreshing. 89+
2006 Castell de Subirats Tinto Selección (Merlot, Ull de Llebre = Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon 13.5% alc.) - touches of coconut and vanilla oak on the nose vs maturing savoury notes, smoky vs cassis and soy sauce too on the palate; fairly concentrated and soft textured vs a bit of grip with nice balance; attractive style with "sweet/savoury" finish and underlying oomph too. 88+
Previous vintages of Llopart here (Cava guide). www.llopart.es

Terroir al Límit - Priorat

This 15-ha (37-acre) estate is in its final year of converting over to organics and is comprised of spectacularly located parcels of old Grenache and Carignan, which clamber up the slopes around the village of Torroja up to 800 metres altitude (2600 feet). It's owned by Dominik A. Huber and leading South African winemaker Eben Sadie. Tasted at Millésime Bio organic wine show 2010:
2007 Torroja (Garnacha, Carineña 14%) - a touch of wood on the nose but quite elegantly done actually, showing attractive "sweet" vs floral fruit and spice; fairly full and long finish. 87
2007 Arbossar (Carineña 14%) - again has background oak notes, leaner and firmer palate although feels bigger too; still enough of that enticing ripe blue/black fruit lingering vs tight length. 88
2007 Dits del Terra (Carineña 14%) - a tad more oak still, although this one's more concentrated and lush vs solid tannins and refreshing bite too; also has that characteristic tense long finish. 89
2007 Les Manyes (Garnacha at 800m, 14%) - more liquorice and spice notes layered with more wood, nice concentration vs tight mouthfeel; less charming now perhaps and a bit punchy on the finish, but once again I like that freshness and taut edge. 89+
2007 Les Tosses (Carineña at 650m, 14%) - wow, tight and crunchy vs punchy mouthfeel; a tad more oak too vs lovely thick fruit coating and very intense, taut, youthful finish. 90+
www.terroir-al-limit.com

Viña Ijalba - Rioja

Founded by Dionisio Ruiz Ijalba in 1975 on the site of an abandoned mine, I'm told, the estate now comes to a sizeable 80 ha (200 acres) of organically farmed vineyards lying around Logrono, San Vicente and Valle del Oja. Peculiarities include plantings of, and varietal wines made from, the indigenous and virtually vanished varieties Maturana Blanca and Tinta, which apparently are referred to in written records dating from 1622... so, you can put that one in your wine-geek fact-finding notepad. The modern wood and brick winery (pic.) is also certified as "environmentally friendly," man. Discovered at the 2010 Millésime Bio show in Montpellier, these wines are distributed in the UK by veteran organic house Vintage Roots and via these importers in the US: Small Vineyards (WA), Baron Francois (NY) and Wine Wise (CA).
2009 Genolí white (Viura) - nice intense juicy green vs exotic fruity with yeast-lees edges, "sweet" vs crisp finish. 85+
2009 Maturana Blanca - more intense still with crisp and juicy vs fatter mouthfeel; unusual. 87+
2009 Aloque rosado (Tempranillo, Garnacha) - fruity and crisp with creamier gluggable finish. 85+
2008 Livor (Tempranillo) - a touch 'reduced' on the nose but has lively crunchy berry fruit vs sweeter liquorice notes; attractive bit of grip and more savoury / peppery on the finish. 87
2005 Dionisio Ruiz Ijalba (Maturana Tinta) - more savoury nose with a dusting of coconut oak; rich ripe liquorice flavours with spicy smoky tones, dark fruit vs dry texture and solid firm finish. 90+
2007 Graciano - funky peppery nose, quite concentrated palate with smoky dark fruit adding nice lush mouthfeel, light oak tones and fair power too. 89+
2005 Crianza (Tempranillo, Graciano) - more "modern" with obvious coconut and vanilla vs lively berry and smoky / savoury flavours too. 87
www.ijalba.com

Bodegas Parra Jimenez - La Mancha

Aka "vinos ecológicos de autor," as it says on their website, or "signature organic wines" guessing from my very mediocre Spanish. Brothers Francisco, Javier and Luis Parra-Jimenez (pictured) started the ball rolling by converting their vineyards over to organic farming in 1993, which was virtually unheard of in the Castilla-La Mancha region at the time. So, 1996 marked the first "officially organic" vintage from their substantial holdings in Las Mesas area, which lies roughly between Madrid and Albacete and directly west of (although a long way from) Valencia. Finca Cuesta Colorá is comprised of 46 hectares (114 acres) of 30 year-old Tempranillo; Finca Arriburra has 5.5 (14) of former Airén vineyards replanted with Sauvignon Blanc (strange choice perhaps given the climate here?); and Finca Entresendas, at 900m altitude (nearly 3000 feet above sea level), is planted with old-vine (60 y-o) Tempranillo and Graciano, plus a trio of more or less predictable French varieties (see below), with a further 50 ha devoted to growing organic garlic and truffle trees! The brothers originally made their wines in the old family cellar but then built a new pink-terracotta winery called Cuesta Colorá, with a few neoclassical swirly bits in case it wasn't loud enough, full of shiny stainless steel and oak barrels... I tried these promising wines at Millésime Bio wine show in Montpellier, January 2010:
2009 Sauvignon Blanc/Moscatel - refreshing clean and aromatic green vs grapey flavours, simple dryish and crisp. 80+
2009 Camino rosado (Tempranillo) - lively and crunchy fruity, nice juicy red fruits vs zingy dry bite. 85
2004 Reserva (mostly Tempranillo) - attractive maturing leather and meaty notes vs ripe dark plum and coffee; turning sweet/savoury on the finish with firm vs rounded tannins, drinking quite well now although should last a bit longer yet. 87+
2001 Gran Reserva (Tempranillo, Graciano, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot) - "sweet" maturing nose with light tobacco and spice; still solid mouthfeel vs plenty of dried fruits, enticing "traditional vs modern" style (to use that cliché). 88+
2004 "OM" Crianza, Manuel de la Osa (Tempranillo, Graciano, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot)  - toasty vs dark ripe fruit, liquorice vs leather tones; pretty concentrated/extracted with toasty chocolate flavour/texture, but also has appealing lush sweet fruit layered on top and a bit of controlled oomph too (14.5%but carries it well). About €30 in restaurants. 90
www.bodegasparrajimenez.com

Parxet / Marqués de Alella / Bodegas Tionio - Catalunya & Ribera del Duero

The Parxet group's head office and Cava cellars are found (although not that easily, it's better to approach from the motorway than the coast road from the south, otherwise you can miss the only sign and get lost in the town's old backstreets. I'm told clearer signposting is on the cards along with the future new shop and tasting room) in Tiana, which is just northeast of Barcelona above, although merges into, the town of Mongat. The latter also virtually merges into the Barcelona suburbs and, going up the coast, into El Masnou, which in turn merges into Alella itself behind it. So you get a rapid condensed layering of beach, train, road, town, hills and vineyards that remarkably characterises this coastal stretch and the compact Alella wine region within it. Thanks to gradual urban expansion, its vineyards only amount to about 300 hectares (750 acres) nowadays; although, once you start exploring away from the sea, the landscape quickly turns less populated with very steep roads (sometimes just earthy tracks so watch out when there are storms, these quickly turn into downhill streams!) winding through woodland and elevated vineyards, even if dissected by motorway.
Parxet has 200 ha of vineyards, all in DO Alella so basically two-thirds of the planted area, in a few different sites from nearer the sea up to Santa Maria de Martorelles at a few hundred metres altitude, where their Marqués de Alella winery is located producing three distinctive white wines. By the way, a little red and rosé Alella are made by others but the area's justifiably better known for its whites. Otherwise their grapes are transformed into pretty classy Cava sold under the Parxet label, named after this charming 18th-Century Mas. The story goes that the Suñol family has been making wine there since then, although Cava production is relatively youthful having started in 1920; today Ramon Raventós runs the show. They also own 22 hectares near Peñafiel in the heart of Ribera del Duero country, with a cellar in nearby Pesquera de Duero; and more recently have gone into partnership in Rioja to make a red called Basagoiti (I've not tried this yet).
Click here for tasting notes on Parxet Cavas or here for more info on all their wineries: www.parxet.es. These wines were tasted in situ in June 2008:
2007 Marqués de Alella (Pansa Blanca = Xarel.lo 12%) - aromatic, gummy and zesty with hints of yeast-lees and grapefruit; crisp v rounded mouth-feel leading to off-dry, attractive finish. About €5. 85-87
2007 Pansa Blanca/Xarel.lo Marqués de Alella (13%) - leesier and riper, concentrated and peachy too with complex yeasty undertones and incisive bite; nice balance and style, richness v crisp length. 88-90
2004 Tionio Crianza, Ribera del Duero (Tinta Fina = Tempranillo, 14 months in French oak) - attractive maturing rustic and savoury tones v vibrant blackcurrant/berry; more obvious spicy coconut oak on the palate, but it's lush and concentrated enough with firm fine tannins; good depth v grip, maturing fruit and length. 90+

Can Bonastre winery & resort - Catalunya

I don't know who owns Finca Can Bonastre de Santa Magdalena, to give it its full title, but they've certainly spent a fortune on this superb looking winery and hotel complex. I've not been there but the glossy brochure says it all: I thought I'd try their red wines, when I came across the flash stand at Alimentaria in Barcelona (March 2008), to see if there was any substance behind the money. As you can see from my notes below, the answer is yes; I'll have to follow up with a visit. This 50 hectare (120 acre) vineyard - plus the same again of woodland - nestles up in the hills, at 300 metres (950 feet) altitude on average, near a place called Masquefa quite a few km northwest of Barcelona, off the long road to Lleida, Montserrat and the Pyrenees. The 5-star hotel has twelve rooms, a restaurant, spa and heliport too, in case you were thinking of taking your chopper for a spin. More info at www.canbonastre.com.
2005 Nara Crianza (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah 13.5%) - rich colour with dark fruit and smoky/cedar oak on the nose (but not much); quite extracted although it has plenty of fruit to counter those pretty firm tannins, tight and powerful length. Needs two to three years to blossom. 90
2006 Can Bonastre Pinot Noir (13.5%) - perfumed and smoky/savoury notes mingle with very ripe lush fruit v fresh bite of acidity; quite solid and powerful v perfumed cherry and violet flavours, nice wine and a bit different. 90
2005 Can Bonastre Crianza (Merlot, Cabernets Sauvignon & Franc, Syrah 13.5%) - a touch more cedary but has lots of ripe plum and cassis fruit with smoky edges; firmer palate showing trademark power v 'sweet' fruit and background oak, more concentrated perhaps although has nice balance and style. 88+
2004 Erumir Crianza (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo 13.5%) - lightly smoky with herbal cassis notes and a touch of oak; quite firm and powerful, has an off-putting slightly reductive character or something similar? 85

Ètim - Catalunya

Otherwise known as Agrícola Falset-Marçà, two small town co-operatives that merged nearly ten years ago to form this go-getting winery in the very up-and-coming Montsant D.O or appellation, found a bit to the west of and inland from Tarragona. The Montsant region seems to be positioning itself as the new Priorat, without the elevated prices hopefully, which it borders and has a few things in common with its better-known neighbour: namely plenty of old-vine red Garnacha, or Garnatxa in Catalan (Grenache obviously) and Carineña (or Samsó, Mazuelo or Carignan) and suitably wild hilly terrain.
Ètim's range, including delicious olive oil as well, is pretty impressive overall, which I sampled at Alimentaria in Barcelona, March 2008, although they need to be careful with the new oak on some of their reds IMHO. The wines are gathering rave reviews across the Atlantic (shipped by Olé Imports, NY) - funnily enough my ratings are similar to those on Robert Parker's website, by pure coincidence - and are available in the UK via their agent/importer Bibendum, based in London. More info at www.etim.es.
2006 Ètim Blanco (white Grenache 14%) - lightly yeasty toasty notes with rich spicy exotic fruit on top, rounded and full-on finishing with a touch of fresh 'chalkiness' v fat texture. 87+
2007 Ètim Rosat (mostly Garnacha plus a splash of Syrah 14%) - very deep colour and light yeast lees on the nose, mega fruity with lush raspberry and cherry, serious weight and a touch of dry tannin too. Wow: food is required! 90
2004 Old Vines Garnacha (+ 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% alc.) - aromatic oak underpinned by lovely Grenache fruit, showing liquorice and tobacco on a firm powerful palate, but it has nice ripeness and depth and subtle cedar tones too. 89+
2004 Castell de Falset (Garnacha Carignan Cabernet Sauvignon) - again shows that cedary oak supplemented by rich smoky fruit, concentrated mouth-feel with lush dark fruits and pruney edges, very grippy yet rounded and long. 90-92
2004 L'Esparver (90% single vineyard with mixed plantings of 90+ year-old Garnacha Carignan plus Merlot and Cab Sauv) - rather oaky but it's very concentrated and lush with tobacco, ripe cassis, plenty of oomph but overly cedary finish. Another wow wine, although pity about that wood. 90+
Oli d'Oliva Extra Virgin - gorgeous rich golden colour and fresh ripe olive flavours, perfumed and tangy on its pure tasty finish.

Palacio de la Vega - Navarra

One of the leading Bodegas in northeast Spain, Palacio de la Vega has been a personal favourite for many years; although I was surprised to find out from their annoying 'Flash' website that it's only been going since 1991. The winery's now owned by mega giant Pernod Ricard, which isn't necessarily a bad thing when you look at some of their other wine brands (Champagne Mumm, Etchart in Argentina, Australia's Wyndham Estate as well as the slightly better-known Jacobs Creek). Anyway, I haven't yet visited PDLV's vineyards and cellars - must pop down to Navarra one of these days - but thought the wines below, bought in various Spanish supermarkets, were worth sharing (if you can still get the 99 Reserva in the UK or US?). They also show that a mix of Spanish and so-called international varieties can work well together when grown in a suitable environment, which seems to be the case in Navarra. Tasted Sept-Dec 2006:
2002 Crianza (Tempranillo Cabernet Sauvignon, 13.5%) - slight sulphide (?) aromas when first opened but it develops nice smoky cassis notes underpinned with cedar oak; full, quite rich & rustic mouth-feel v tangy tight length, quite powerful yet balanced, firm tannins v maturing fruit. 87-89
2005 Rosado (Garnacha Cabernet Sauvignon, 13%) - full-on chunky raspberry and strawberry fruit, ripe and rounded v subtle acidity and tight length. 87+
1999 Reserva Tempranillo (13%) - enticing developed earthy peppery notes v light vanilla and black cherry; concentrated blueberry fruit with background layer of oak, nice texture and maturity v still firm-ish tannins and fresh bite. A complete wine showing balance and style, drinking now yet I think will improve for another couple of years; try with pasta in a cépes & aioli sauce. €6-7 90-92

Raimat - Catalonia

Raimat, owned by the Cava group Codorníu, practically invented the Costers del Segre DO zone in Catalonia. The adventure began back in 1914, when the Raventós family bought 3200 hectares of barren land in Lleida...
Tasted between Oct 2005 and Jan 2006:
2001 Clamor red (Cabernet Sauvignon & Tempranillo, 13%) - smooth maturing style that nicely mixes traditional Rioja and Bordeaux, smoky silky Pinot Noir-like fruit with firmer, leather-tinged yet vanilla-rounded finish. €5-6 89
2004 Rosado (Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon & Pinot Noir, 12.5%) - unusual and superb rosé, with full bodied quite fat strawberry palate leading to balanced classy finish. 89
Brut Nature Mètode Tradicional (Pinot Noir, Chardonnay & Xarello, 12%) - this really quite fine and flavoursome sparkling wine, shaped by similar production methods to Champagne, comes from outside the Cava area. Fairly rich, buttery and tropical fruit gives way to developing yeasty complexity with fresh, dry and elegant length. Brut Nature means no added dosage, i.e. not sweetened with less than 5 grams natural residual sugar; so pretty dry to you and me. 90+Tasted June 2006:
2005 rosado/rosat Casal Raimat (Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot, 13%) - not sure if this is just the new vintage with change of name and packaging, or a different wine. Anyway, it's good stuff as usual, quite rich and full yet aromatic and fresh. 87+
2005 Casal Raimat blanco - distinctive white, nice mix of juicy fat fruit with yeast-lees intensity and crisp length. 87+
Tasted July 2006:
2003 Clamor crianza (Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Tempranillo 13.5%) - again shows that subtle mix of smoky rustic tones and complex berry fruit, silky mouthfeel, although firmer and bigger than the 2001; all layered with not too much vanilla oak flavour. €5+ 89+ Tasted October 2007:
2006 Casal Raimat rosado (Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot, 13%) - vibrant raspberry and blueberry fruit, weighty with light grip even v fresh and zesty. 87+

Latest Raimat Cava vintages tasted here.

Fizz of the moment: Bach Cava

Bach Extrísimo Cava Brut Nature (varieties: Macabeu, Xarel.lo, Parellada. 11.5% alc.) - not the greatest "Brut Natural" style Cava (very dry, no added dosage) but one of the most consistently brilliant value: I've tried it several times before and recently bought a bottle in Spain on offer for under €3! Attractive combo of floral bready and light oat-biscuit notes, with hints of honeyed almond flavours too; followed by refreshingly appley, crisp and dry finish. Good with light summer food or very easy quaffing as an "apero." Bach also makes a delicious dry still rosé ("rosat" or "rosado") and is part of codorniu.com. Lots more Cavas in my WineWriting.com Cava guide here. Photo from bach.es.

Spain: Cava guide updated

From www.crcava.es

I've updated and tidied up my now 15-page mini-guide to 'Creative Catalan Bubbly' country featuring new 'entries' from these wineries, big and small: Vallformosa, Chozas Carrascal, Segura Viudas, Freixenet, Marqués de Monistrol, Campo Viejo, Jaume Serra, Castellblanch, Marqués de la Concordia/The Haciendas Company, Castillo Perelada and Juvé y Camps. Also includes some latest thoughts and figures on Cava export markets and updated profiles on a couple of stand-out cellars.

This Cava mini-guide isn't viewable on WW.com, so you can buy the full PDF report for just £1.99 emailed to you once I get confirmation of payment. Hit the PayPal button below (select it in drop-down menu first) to pay by card or with your own PP account, although you don't need one to do so! More about card payments and general T&C by clicking HERE.

Select:

French wine e-magazine English wine guide Cava guide Slovenia & Croatia Portugal special

'Wines of the week'

This varied selection of 'wines of the week', to use the popular editorial-speak, is making an impromptu appearance here instead of the more customary 'wines of the moment', just for a change of scenery, along with a few random dishes that made a good match. Some of these wines were opened at two recommended BYO restaurants located in Ballyhackamore in groovy suburban east Belfast, known affectionately as 'Bally-snack-amore': the Rajput Indian and Good Fortune Chinese, which will both be featured on this blog shortly.

Sparkling wine: France, England, Germany, Spain, Chile, Oz, Italy, S Africa...

THE LATEST VERSION OF THIS PAGE CAN NOW BE FOUND IN THE PAGE ARCHIVE HERE.

 

A gratuitously fizzy post simply to create one central URL for a handy 'wine words' side-bar link (below right) to all pieces on sparkling wine... Updated: from June 2015 posts and features on Champagne are now appearing on a special page HERE.

Gusbourne Estate, Kent

Spain: Cava Cabré & Sabaté.

Cabré & Sabaté is yet another packaging guise created by bespoke-label Cava maestro Jaume Serra for Mercadona and other supermarkets in Spain; this impressive winery also produces very good fizz for several UK retailers (Asda, Aldi, Morrison's...).

The Wine Society: 150 years.

The Wine Society is the world's oldest cooperative wine merchant, or 'member-owned community of wine lovers' to use their own words, based in Hertfordshire UK. Here are my dozen top picks from their recent Belfast tasting in tantalisingly random order.

Bubbly and white wines of the moment

Photo from saint-chinian.pro

Château Viranel Intuition blanc 2020 Saint-Chinian Languedoc (60% Grenache blanc, 15% Roussanne, 20% Vermentino, 5% Bourboulenc, 13.5% abv): This delicious mix of southern French grape varieties undergoes a modest 15% of the blend fermented in barrels (and all the better for it) with the completed wine stored and stirred on the yeast-lees for three months to maximise flavour and texture.

Spain: Cava and Rioja 'of the moment'

Arestel Cava Brut (11.5% abv) - Such a bargain considering this is surprisingly good for the money: there can only be about £1 in it to cover production and everybody's profit, once you take off UK VAT and excise duty! (Who would want to supply Lidl and try actually making money...) Nicely floral and almond-nutty with refreshing aftertaste. £4.49 Lidl.

Heretat El Padruell Cava Brut, Jaume Serra (Macabeu, Parellada, Xarel-lo; 11.5% abv) - A touch yeastier/toastier and 'oilier' yet similarly light and easy-going; nice start and end to Christmas day quaffing. £6 M&S (usually £8).

Marqués del Romeral Rioja Reserva 2010, Bodegas Age (Tempranillo, Graciano and Mazuelo; 13.5% abv) - Lovely 'traditional' style with deft mix of smoky vanilla oak (American and French, for two years) and sweet red berry fruit, turning savoury and more complex on its soft stylish finish. Great pre-Christmas offer price too at £8.50 (usually £13.50 apparently), although it's probably already gone back up to full price. Went well with Guinea fowl for Xmas lunch. Image copied from Marks & Spencer's site.

Spain: Loxarel - Catalunya

Based at their Can Mayol estate near Vilobí del Penedès in the hills just to the north of Vilafranca (about 40-50 km west of Barcelona), the Mitjans family produces, following organic and biodynamic techniques, an interesting mix of 'local vs international' whites and reds, in addition to a variety of different rosés. From classic Catalan rosat (even if containing a large splash of Pinot) to an "extreme" style made from high-altitude late-picked Merlot; and a quirky barrel-fermented one from Xarel.lo vermell, a virtually extinct red-skinned version of this indigenous variety, which I wasn't that keen on though. And let's not forget the great range of traditional method sparklers (I won't call them Cava, as they've dropped that term...), most of them made in the Brut Nature style, i.e. no dosage added (= unsweetened). Check out their wild '109' at the bottom; hard to find fizz with much more flavour and complexity, except Bolly RD perhaps! € prices quoted are cellar door/online: click on the web link below the photo for more info.

Goat pruning method - from loxarel.com

2012 Xarel.lo (fermented in amphorae, 13% abv) - nutty 'mineral' nose, crisp and steely palate with light yeast-lees and pear notes, intense mineral bite vs lightly oily texture and bruised pear fruit; elegant and long. €12

2012 Petit Arnau rosat (Pinot noir, Merlot; 13% abv) - lively cherry fruit, full and creamy mouth-feel with fair weight vs crisp dry and tight with attractive raspberry and cranberry fruit. Nice dry rosé style. €6.40

2011 Gal Gran Arnau rosat (Merlot, 14.5% abv) - described as "extreme rosé", this has earthy, smoky even, raspberry and black cherry fruit, ripe vs crisp with a touch of grip on the palate, big mouthful; unusual! €12.50
2011 Eos Syrah (from a single vineyard in the upper Penedès at 600 metres altitude farmed organically, eight months in new Hungarian oak 500 litre barrels; 14.5% abv) - pure spicy/floral black cherry Syrah style, nice sweet fruit vs grippy texture, fairly intense finish; attractive "modern" red. €10.70
2008 '790' Reserva (single estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% abv) - maturing savoury 'oily' notes vs peppery cassis with cedary edges; quite smooth palate with enticing 'sweet/savoury' finish vs still a little firmness too; developed a bit of complexity as well. €13.80

2008 Cava Reserva Vintage Brut Nature (now labelled as D.O Penedès, old-vine Xarel.lo & Chardonnay; 12% abv) - light bready oat cake notes, crisp and dry mouth-feel vs rich and classy, long fresh finish with subtle toasted flavours. Very nice fizz, great value at €7.40.
2002 'Cent Nou' Gran Reserva Brut Nature (95% old-vine Xarel.lo: 'new' sparkling D.O Penedès style which isn't disgorged, i.e. fine lees sediment left in the bottle. Cent Nou = 109 in Catalan, as in 109 months bottle-ageing on the yeast lees!) Full-on rich nose, oat biscuit and chocolate with more exotic fruit too (dried apricot!) vs very yeasty, freshly baked bread notes; very intense flavour with nutty toasty finish vs lean mineral bite. Wow, not tried anything like that before! €64

Plenty more from Spain, Catalunya and Cava HERE.

Spain: Catalan "wines of the moment"

Specialist Spanish wine importer Oliver Burridge & Co. (based in the UK but they also sell to wine merchants in Ireland; click on that link to go to their site) has just added to their burgeoning selection from Catalan country, including two Cavas, white and rosé, and a few reds and a white from the lesser-known regions of Terra Alta and Montsant. These two wine areas can both be found in Tarragona province (about 100 km/60 miles southwest of Barcelona) on the higher ground (the red 'Cims del Montsant' below means MS Peaks) away from the coast, and I've featured three wines from here. The red and white from the Edetaria winery are particularly sexy, made from black and white Grenache or Garnacha or Garnatxa Negra and Garnatxa Blanca in Catalan. And the two Cavas tasting-noted and reviewed are made by Capesa and are pretty typical good examples of this tasty refreshing sparkling wine.

Cava Olivella Ferrari Brut Rosé Capesa (mostly Trepat, 11.5% alc.) - tasty refreshing style, fruity and elegant with lovely fine frothy mousse; has delicate oat biscuit flavours vs red fruits and rose aromas, drier than some rosé Cavas with crisp lively finish. £11.50 Spirited Wines.
Cava Olivella Ferrari Brut Reserva Capesa (Macabeu, Xarel.lo, Parellada; 11.5% alc.) - subtle delicate style with refreshing fizz and mineral notes vs very light toasted almond and floral fruit, gets even more refreshing and quaffable as you sip it. £10.50 Spirited Wines, Merchant Vintners, Flourish and Prosper.

2010 Cims del Montsant Garnatxa i Carinyena Cellers Baronia del Montsant (13.5%) - better than their 2011 Codols del Montsant Garnacha (a bit over-extracted and lacking roundness), this one is smoother with a layer of vanilla/coconut oak, quite lush dark and spicy fruit with dry vs rounded tannins. £11 Spirited Wines.

2011 Via Terra Garnatxa Negra Edetaria, Terra Alta (14.5%) - rich punchy and peppery, black cherry/berry with fig and liquorice notes and savoury black olive edges; light touch of coconut/vanilla oak but it's well done, lovely dry/firm vs ripe texture, powerful yet balanced. Nice lingering dark fruit vs meaty savoury side. Yum. £11.50
2011 Via Terra Garnatxa Blanca Edetaria, Terra Alta (13.5%) - attractive juicy pear notes vs nutty oily side with mineral bite, a tad honeyed and weighty too vs crisp and juicy, nice subtle length and style with lingering almond and pear flavours. £11 Guildford Wine Company; The Wine Library; Spirited Wine (with own label Vinya d'Irto); Liquid Pleasure.

Lots more Cava and Spanish wine HERE.